after dinner sneeze

a lot of g says, t says

corked or screwed?

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t says:  By no means an “old” debate, I have recently reconsidered where I stand on the issue of real corks vs. screw-tops.  For those who are unaware, the traditional enclosure for bottles of wine has long been cork.  The problem, however, is that cork is not the most fool-proof enclosure, as there are countless cases of compromised corks and therefore compromised wine.  We here at adsz have written about near-misses as well as straight-up failures of cork.  I’d guess (as I have no numbers to substantiate the claim) that the two biggest problems with corks are that they can dry out (and shrink, therefore allowing air to seep into the wine – n.b. this does not lead to a “corked” wine) and that they are prone to contamination with TCA (which does lead to “corked” wine).  Screw tops (and other synthetic enclosures) are have less problems with this [if any].  So why put up with corks?  The two most common reasons:
1)  The tradition/ceremony/romance of removing a cork would be reduced to an action we frequently perform on bottles of soda.
2)  Theoretically, the synthetic enclosures would “allow in less oxygen”, therefore preventing the long-term aging/maturation of wine.

While point 1 is irrefutable (as it’s an opinion), I feel that there remains plenty of wine ceremony with screw-tops, like decanting, swirling, sniffing, etc.  Thus, I really only favored corks because I thought that there was real “fact” to back up point 2.  As you can see in the hyperlinked post, the author (like many authors out there – this one just happened to pop up on google first) kind of admits that it’s controversial but then strongly states that screw-topped wines would “never” be better with age.  Here, let me copy-paste for you:
other person says:  “Although some may argue with this, I do not believe that a bottle of wine with a screw top is going to improve sitting in your wine cellar for a of couple years. It will taste the same as the day you stuck it in the cellar or perhaps worse, but never better. No oxygen is going to pass through a screw top so those subtle aging characteristics produced by a cork are not going to take place. Corks breathe, screw tops to not. I am not recommending that you shy away from purchasing wine with screw tops but that you are aware that these wines are to drink now. When you purchase wine that comes with a screw top, be sure to drink it within a year.”

back to t:  And, given that wine snobs (myself included) tend to be a strongly opinionated bunch (and tend to voice their opinions loudly … especially after a glass of wine), it’s easy to see how such hypotheses and statements about the shortcomings of screw-tops are propagated …

BUT, then I started reading anecdotes like these:
https://www.cellartracker.com/new/event.asp?iEvent=13650
http://amateurgastronomer.com/index/screw-top-tasting/
http://www.atarangi.co.nz/cellaring-guide.html (at the very bottom)

And now … I’m left wondering who to believe!   On one side, the pro-cork people have “logic” … but they also require the use of “assumptions” (e.g. assuming that air entry via the cork is the most critical component for proper wine aging).  On the other side, the pro-screw people (that sounds weird …) have only some anecdotes and a couple [rather limited] studies suggestive of no difference between the two in terms of taste (and maybe some hints of the possibility of superiority for the screwtop).

The scientist in me (having awoken after a 1.5 year slumber) feels that there just isn’t enough data to take a side … yet.  It is pretty tempting to go pro-screw-top, but they’re going to need some better-controlled studies if they want to conclude that screw-tops are not worse than cork (“the absence of proof should never be considered proof of absence”).  Furthermore, the scientist in me is quite furious at the wine snob in me for being pro-cork for as long as I have, accepting and spreading the explanation as “reasonable”, “logical”, and even “truth” without the numbers to back it up; it’s dangerous and could lead to misinformation that could have disastrous effects had this been a real-life issue rather than something as frivolous as wine.  As for the wine snob in me – he’s crying after having been verbally abused for the duration of me writing this post.

Conclusion: I’m “retracting” my former statements made to friends and family about the superiority of cork … pending further evaluation by UC Davis and other such impartial investigators.  May the best enclosure win.  And yes, this means that if I meet the wine-of-my-life tomorrow, I will buy it … regardless of its silly-looking screw-top.  I’m a changed man.

Written by afterdinnersneeze

31 May 2012 at 4:16pm

The Oregon Trail: Eateries (cont’d)

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t says:  And to complete the whirlwind recap of Oregon dining, here we go …

Wine Country Day 3 – Dinner: Thistle.  Now, this restaurant is quite a controversial topic in wine country.  Our BnB proprietors very clearly didn’t like the place – the chef had a reputation of being “Mr. Grumpy-pants”, and the format of the restaurant is a little too “hip”/”cool” for Oregon.  For example, when we walked in, you’re told by the hostess/waitress/server that the menu is on the board and that that’s the only place it’s written (Little Fish has a very similar tactic).  On one hand, the menu seemed pretty good:

Thistle’s menu

But on the other hand, you can’t see the menu from every seat in the restaurant (actually, I’d say that less than half the seats in the restaurant are even in the same room as the menu!) … and this is why their execution of the chalkboard menu is ultimately a fail!  As the evening progressed, a crowd of people started to build, as patrons had to stand in the room we were eating in (i.e. I picked a seat right underneath the menu so as not to have to rely on memory), make up their minds, memorize their choices, and then return to their seats.

Continuing with Thistle weirdness …
So I got up to wash my hands before eating.  I apparently looked lost (I was), so the bartender gave me directions … but then he warned me … “Yeah, the lights don’t work in there – don’t worry – there’s candles.”  I thought, “that’s weird”.  And then I walked in:

bathroom by candlelight

So then I knew it was weird.  I mean this has to be some kind of violation.  You can’t see it in the above picture, but that bar next to the toilet that people should rely on for balance in case they’re elderly or handicapped (or happen to fall in because someone left the seat up) – there’s candles on that, too.  I’m all for ambience – trust me – but I just don’t see how anyone needs to be put in a romantic mood to void/evacuate/wash.  Kinda weird …

On to the food – it wasn’t bad!  Actually – it was pretty good – technically the best that we had in Willamette Valley.  Fish cookery was top notch.  Gnocchi were soft and pillowy.  Good stuff.  g was especially happy because for all of the negative comments we had read about the chef, we found that his food was tasty.  We did feel, however, that the chef might be a little “green”.  It seems like he has a lot of ideas (i.e. ingredients) that he desperately wants to put on each and every plate without putting enough thought into how the diner would approach them.  As a result, I found myself hunting/dissecting with my fork and knife to ensure that every bite had at least some of each of the components, as I imagined that’s how chef imagined they’d go together.  A prime example was the fish dish:

there’s just too many (at least 7) components! … (but each one is cooked VERY nicely)

I think my favorite of the evening was:

simple appetizer = potato + bacon + kale + egg + mustard

We would consider going back to Thistle again, but there are other places in Wine Country that we’d try first.  Cuvee, Recipe, and The Painted Lady come to mind immediately (oh, and the restaurant in the Allison and the new one in the Inn at Red Hills).

Oregon Day 4:  Mixing it up …

So we decided to visit Columbia River Gorge before settling in Portland.  It’s true that you kind of pass right by Portland to get to the Gorge from Wine Country, however, we felt that we just needed to visit more of Oregon.  It was great!  The views were spectacular, and had g and I been more “into” water sports and/or hiking, I’m sure we could have spent even more time there.  For us, we were content with the pretty surroundings and the waterfalls.

Multnomah Falls is so huge we couldn’t fit more than half of it in any one picture …

Additionally, there are lots of great spots to picnic.  We stopped at a Target to pick up a corkscrew and acrylic tumbler so that we could drink some rose at the Gorge – check it:

lemon zest chevre (Abbey Road Farms) + baguette (Red Hills Market) + Domaine Drouhin rose (in a $2 Target tumbler)

This lunch was AWESOME.

After arriving and getting situated in Portland (and seeing some sights – like Powell’s City of Books), g and I prepared for our first [and only] dinner in Portland: Le Pigeon.

We had reservations to eat at 7:30 but were starving by 5:30.  So we “chanced it” and just showed up, hoping to nail one of the chef’s counter seats that are available to walk-ins only (only 10 or so seats available, first-come-first-served).  We were in luck – we were the last two that fit!  Whoopie!

Ok – let’s slow things down now – Le Pigeon deserves the blow-by-blow …

t’s app: grilled lamb tongue “salad”

So, the lamb tongue wasn’t presented in exactly the way I thought.  I thought that a hunk of tongue was going to be cooked slow and then grilled at the last second.  Instead, this was fine slices of meat mixed with other interesting salad-like ingredients.  Ultimately everything did taste great, but I think people who go ga-ga for this dish are just falling for the hype of “eating tongue”, to which I am no stranger (and this didn’t taste particularly lamby, either).  And, unfortunately, it paled in comparison to g’s app …

g’s app: rabbit pot pie (topped with hot mustard ice cream) + rabbit heart “salad”

Holycrapballsthiswasamazing.  First off, That pot pie totally killed it.  As much as I raved about Alla Spina’s Pig Pot Pie, this is an order of magnitude better.  Seriously.  The succulent rabbit meat (and plenty of it), the ice cream (g loves hot mustard), and I even think there was a little bit of foie hiding in there … heaven.  And then there was that mix of rabbit heart and mustard and something sweet/fruity-tasting (?tamarind?) and unidentifiable other “stuff”.  And then it happened: I was brought to a pause – you know – one of those times when you want to just close your eyes and let your brain and mouth savor every flavor of the symphony before you.  It was the best dish I had had in a long time.  And the surprise/novelty of it reminded me a bit of the old Talula’s Table Bryan Sikora (not to be confused with the new a.kitchen Sikora).  I did not see that one coming … Needless to say, g won Battle Appetizer (lamb tongue never stood a chance).

For mains, I went for the hunk of meat:

t’s main: boeuf bourgignon

I thought that I had this one all locked up.  The meat was fall-apart tender and deeply penetrated with the uber-oomphy braising liquid.  The onions and potatoes were so deeply flavored that they barely resembled their pre-cooked form.  And yes, even the carrots were scrumptious.  It was so classically done and so perfectly executed that team t was going to steamroll team g for sure … or so I thought …

g’s main: chicken … kinda

Ok … so I labeled the above photo “chicken”.  And yes, it was a plate that featured chicken.  But don’t be fooled.  This was no ordinary chicken.  This chicken was possessed by the devil … because clearly only Beezlebub would think of lobster-ifying chicken.  That’s right – lobster chicken.  Now, g confesses that she ordered it because she wanted me to have the beef (I “called it” first) – she only went for the chicken because I had told her that some Yelpers said it was delicious.  They. were. not. lying.  You put a piece of white chicken (stuffed with lobster) in your mouth and it’s so vividly lobster that you swear it was a piece of lobster.  And then, as you bite down, you get the firmness of chicken which while weird at first is actually kind of a well-matched texture for the power of the lobster.  Underneath, there’s dark meat mixed with lobster pieces and that ridiculous sauce (and peas … g loves peas).  Now, g admits that this technically was not the “best” chicken she ever had in terms of chicken cookery (i.e. the chicken alone wasn’t particularly tender or particularly juicy – but done well enough), but she feels that it’s probably a contender for the best “chicken dish” she’s ever had when it comes to flavor – and I’m totally with her.  This chicken – this silly bird that was screwed around with to taste like lobster – was out of control.  As good as my beef was (and as impressive as the picture of the beef was) and as confident I was that “cow beats chicken” is as true/fact/dogma as “rock beats scissors”, g’s chicken, with the power of lobster, slayed my cow.  Damnit.  I was 0-2 this meal (and she let me have first pick!)  On to desserts to see if I could pick up at least 1 victory to restore team morale …

t’s dessert: creme brulee and malt pot de creme

My dessert wasn’t very fussy.  I was feeling kind of full, so I wanted some lighter flavors that went down smoothly.  And, after watching chef torch off a creme brulee (after all, we did have prime seats), I decided that that’s what I wanted.  And indeed everything was delicious!  The textures, temperatures, and flavors were all spot on …

but g showed me no mercy …

g’s dessert: “carrot cake”

I was actually surprised g ordered dessert.  Usually, she foregoes dessert and takes a bite of mine.  But not this day.  This day, she annihilated me 3-0.  Okay.  Look at that carrot cake.  That is clearly NOT a “carrot cake” as the menu suggested.  It was like bringing a gun to a knife-fight.  Forget “gun” – try rocket launcher.  First off, let’s tackle the obvious component: the carrot cake.  This carrot cake was crazy.  Now, I’ve had some darn good carrot cakes in the past (shout-out to w!), but this was super moist and super soft, but somehow not “spongy”, and it boasted carrot and spice flavors, but no actual carrot particles were visible.  The cream cheese icing wasn’t over-bearingly sweet or cream-cheesy, with just the right amount of viscosity.  I’m pretty sure those nuts were toasted because there’s no way they could have had the flavors they had otherwise.  The chamomile ice cream – ok – that was the one thing on the dish that was “normal” – a nice mild flavor to provide some background for the other fireworks.  Now let’s talk about the ridiculous …  Those ribbon thingees are shavings of yellow, orange, and purple carrot that had been treated in such a manner that they were essentially like those Listerine pocket strips … except that they tasted of carrot.  Those yellow raisins were rehydrated in Lord-knows-what, but had this mix of sweetness and a little bit of sour/tart punch.  And then there’s that little cube of orange … carrot, right?  WRONG.  That was some sort of gelatin substance that was cut into cubes (think textured like panna cotta) so it would look like carrot, but have this wonderful cross of creamy and carroty and sweet.  Someone had a lot of fun crafting this dessert … and we had even more fun eating it.

As you can see, Le Pigeon serves some wonderful food.  At “baseline” (i.e. everything I ordered), the food is “delicious” and superbly executed.  But at the extreme (i.e. everything g ordered), it’s whimsical and surprising (and delicious and superbly executed).  g wants to do an FTC trip to Oregon so that we can do up the wineries and go to Le Pigeon.  Who knows – maybe after reading this post, the usual suspects will begin thinking about it …  Whadya say – International Pinot Noir Celebration in July 2013?

Day 5 – Finishing off Portland …

Yes … this has been a very long post.  But give me just a few more pictures to wrap up our trip (rapid fire – I promise!):

I started off the day by bringing some Voodoo Donuts back to the hotel … yea … I know it’s a tourist trap

wait for it …

raspberry jelly, lemon cruller, buttermilk, and Memphis Mafia (i.e. chocolate, caramel, peanut butter, all on fried fritter dough)

Voodoo was good, but I think their “shtick” is just doing “over-the-top” donuts (they have a lot more like the Memphis Mafia pictured above).  I kind of prefer FedNuts super-flavor-packed donuts to these, but I will say that Voodoo has a better actual “donut matter” (Fednuts are a little too cakey for me).

We did Bunk Sandwiches takeout for lunch – they’ve received a ton of accolades and have been on DDD – I know it’s a tourist trap, too …

meatball sandwich – those were some darn solid meatballs and the sauce was actually pretty good (with some spice) … but I know that g’s meatballs could wreck Bunk’s … just sayin …

chicken salad – good components around the chicken salad, but the salad itself was only “meh” – Rotisseur might be able to take ‘em …

And that’s it!

We boarded a plane with our wine, prayed that we (and the wine) would arrive safely in PHL, and voila!  Here we are!

Overall, it was a fantastic trip – g was glad she did it! (Her original attitude was “Oregon?  Who goes to Oregon for vacation?”).  To those who’ve “done” California, Oregon is a great trip with great wines and a slower/nicer attitude.  The food might not be as polished/famous as Napa’s, but it’s also a helluvalot cheaper (the wines are, too!).  Portland is an interesting city and worth a visit (lots of cool tattoos), but we can’t justify any more than 2 days (g says:  When we go back to Oregon, we’re only going to stay in Portland for the food – no need for me to see anything else.) – we probably would have spent more time in the Gorge had we had the time.

Written by afterdinnersneeze

29 May 2012 at 12:48am

Waiting for noon …

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t says:. We’re hanging out at the shore. The weather is beautiful. The only thing missing:

20120526-114508.jpg
But we will … Right as soon as it’s no longer “morning”.

Written by afterdinnersneeze

26 May 2012 at 11:49am

Posted in Happenings

The Oregon Trail: Eateries

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t says:  And now, let’s roll the picture reel – it’s time to see some Oregon food.

Wine Country Day 1 – Lunch:  Red Hills Market.  This was a cute little market that sold everything from meats, breads, and cheeses to wines, coffees, and touristy nick-knacks.  They do some pretty good desserts, including the best macaroon I’ve ever had (I didn’t take a picture of it because by the time I thought to do so, I had already consumed the entire macaroon).  It’s the perfect place for a first bite after a tired journey or to pick up some picnic necessities.  Oh – I forgot to mention the delicious artisanal sandwiches:

red hills market roast beef

Wine Country Day 1 – Dinner:  <Picnic> Famous 3rd Street Pizza.  We didn’t take a pic of the place or the pizza because it was pretty standard fare – nothing special.  We would have done something awesomer, but Mondays in Oregon Wine Country are tough – it’s REALLY hard to find open restaurants (either that or we just suck at looking for them).  We took a pizza back to Abbey Road Farms BnB and enjoyed the view over a slice of pie.  Ahhhhhh, heaven.

Wine Country Day 2 – Lunch: The Horse Radish.  Located in downtown Carlton (this is a joke), this is a great little sandwich-centric place for lunch.  Because it was called “the Horse Radish”, g insisted that we order a dish containing the condiment … meaning that we again had roast beef:

not as “sexy” as Red Hills Market, but more filling (only half is pictured above)

Oregon cheese trio and some fig jam

Overall, the food was satisfactory and the price was right.  Not bad!

Wine Country Day 2 – Dinner: We had another outdoor picnic, but this time, we’re going to play a game where you guess what we ate after a long day of wine tasting …

The large box had a salad (yawn), while the other components of super-awesome outdoor meal are …

… Oregon Dungeness crab lasagna …

… papperdelle bolognese …

… cupcakes (peanut butter and chocolate, red velvet, raspberry filled, and caramel filled) …

… and a beautiful view!

As you could probably guess from my strong words in the last post, the wine was the best part of this meal.  It was just a wonderful outdoor drinking wine.  The food was pretty good, but we have to admit that for the hype that Nick’s Italian Cafe gets, you’d think that this was going to be the best Italian food ever.  It wasn’t.  (g suggests:  It wasn’t bad, but maybe they just don’t have a lot of great Italian places around here to compare it to.)  I agree – Osteria would reduce the long-time “establishment” of Nick’s to a nothing more than a faded memory within a single summer.  The cupcakes a similar story – they weren’t bad, but it’s similar to any old cupcakery you can find in Philly.

Wine Country Day 3 – Lunch:  Dundee Bistro.  This place rocks.  Seriously.  The food is well-prepared and often contains little tidbits of novelty to wake you up from a wine-tasting-induced-siesta.  The by-the-glass wine list is impressive.  The hipster waiters are nice enough, so that wasn’t a problem.  I’d say that if you want a sit-down lunch, this place is a no-brainer.

pasta carbonara … but the pasta is kinda like ramen noodles …

French Fries (truffled) + golden beet salad with curried apples

Wine Country Day 3 – Dinner … to be continued …

Written by afterdinnersneeze

25 May 2012 at 1:35am

The Oregon Trail: Wine

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t says:  So, we already went through some of our trip, but now we get down to the wine … after all – the whole point of the trip was to take on Oregon Wine Country (or at least, the Willamette Valley).  We didn’t take a ton of pictures, but we’ll mention who had great views, great wines, etc. (and I promise pictures on our next post about FOOD).  But let me warn you right now: this post is going to be INCREDIBLY boring for those with no interest in wine.  But if you’re a “wino”, then maybe you might make it through without falling asleep (maybe).  Furthermore, if you’re planning a trip to OR, then this might be a helpful post, as we wish someone would have told us all of this beforehand.  At the very least, g and I can look back on this post and remember which places to revisit and which places to avoid on our next OR trip …

Day 1:

Argyle Tasting Room:  Right across the street from where we lunched (Red Hills Market – more coming soon), Argyle is known for producing some of Oregon’s best bubblies.  Because of this, we decided to make Argyle our first OR tasting as it would be a fun way to celebrate being in Oregon.  So how was it?  “Meh” is probably most accurate.  g, the bubbly expert of the two of us, felt that the sparkling wines in her flight were “ok”, but not particularly spectacular – kind of a letdown if these were Oregon’s best bubblies.  I tackled Argyle’s pinot noir offerings and found that although potable, they, too, were mediocre at best.  Oh well, at least its location didn’t really make us go out of our way to get to it.  Grade: C

Ponzi Wine Bar:  We did NOT go to this wine bar, however, it’s right across from Red Hills Market and actually connected to Dundee Bistro, so it would have been even closer than the Argyle Tasting Room (e.g. we walked to the Argyle Tasting room, we could have crawled to Ponzi’s using only the strength of our eyelids).  Ponzi’s wine bar wouldn’t have had bubbles, and I can’t vouch for Ponzi wines, however, the bar does offer tastings of other reputable, non-Ponzi wines that we gradually become familiar with throughout our Oregon Trail – so that would have been a far better option than Argyle … just sayin’ …  Grade: ??? (likely far greater than C)

Erath Winery:  We first had Erath pinot noir off the winelist at Talula’s Garden and found it to be delicious and inexpensive (i.e. when you buy it by the bottle at a wine store).  Having been let down by Argyle, g suggested that we give Erath a try on Day 1, even though it wasn’t on our itinerary (k and cm know about my “itineraries”).  The tasting room at the winery was well-appointed, and there are some impressive views to be had.  The wines weren’t too shabby, either, as the tasting covered a variety of price-points and production levels, ranging from the sub-$20 pinot noir and pinot gris you can find in nearly any store (and pretty good for the money, too!) to above-$50 rare-beyond-the-winery options.  The most surprisingly delicious wine was a still white wine made from pinot noir grapes, which I had never tasted before (although I have since found this to be a common wine style in Lombardy and Germany).  Erath’s version had this excellent mix of stone fruit and tart apple and vegetal zip all on a creamy vanilla background – like a peculiar cross between a California Chardonnay and a German Riesling.  (g says:  It tastes like what a great bubbly would taste like … without the bubbles! … which is great so now t can have some!).  You’ll be seeing this bottle in the next post …  Ultimately, we felt that Erath was a darned good “Intro to Oregon Wines” tasting … but pass it if you’re already familiar with OR wines.  Grade: B+

Day 2:

Adelsheim:  Adelsheim’s kind of pricey.  The tour is pricey.  The wines are pricey.  However, the tour was particularly nice and rather complete from grape to cellar (it’s especially well-suited for those who’ve never seen a winery before), and the wines were pretty solid (a good way to taste multiple expressions of pinot noir).  (g interjects: “Solid”?  Stop being so critical!  They were delicious!  I would have been happy taking home 3 of the 5 we tasted!)  Ok.  Scratch “solid” – make it “good” … but that’s as far as I’m going.  Grade: B+ (“better” wines than Erath, but a higher price-tag.)

Carlton Winemakers Studio: Welcome to a wine snob’s heaven.  This place is a collection of winemakers who all use a single facility to craft their wines – so there’s a lot of “up-and-coming” pinot-making talent by people who are just getting started and don’t yet have the facilities to make their wines at their own vineyards.  Every wine-experienced person we ran into suggested we go here – so we did.  The tasting room in Carlton (so it’s just a wine bar you’re visiting, not a winery) was helmed by the “wine director” on the day we went; he had a lot of knowledge, but he also had a healthy dose of wine snobbery and was not afraid to express his opinions (g admits: He was an “acquired” taste.).  His opinions included things like:
“Your state’s liquor laws are stupid. I think they’re just plain wrong, so I ship there all the time anyways because I don’t care.”  (Whoa there spanky … don’t let the PLCB catch wind of this …)
“Yea, I said this wine was ‘pretty’, but I actually don’t like it.  Actually, I recommend that you buy that other one instead because this one is ‘so pretty’ that it’s kind of boring.  Actually, it’s my least favorite bottle on the entire list.”  (WHAT the crap?  The sad truth is that I was somehow suckered by this logic and avoided the “too pretty” wine!  WHAT?  How did that happen?  g still doesn’t understand why he even bothers to sell that wine at all.  Whatever.)
However I felt about the guy behind the counter, and even though the wines featured here are more expensive than those at Adelsheim, the Studio does a brilliant job showing how different vineyards/winemakers can take pinot into a various directions that differ so wildly from each other – it was actually very cool.  We’d go back for a tasting in a heart-beat.  Grade: B+ (would have been an A- had a nicer person been there)

Rex Hill / AtoZ Wineworks:  While Rex Hill is probably the first winery that anyone traveling to Willamette Valley from Portland will see … but it was the worst tasting we had.  The winery’s not pretty.  The wines at best are “meh” at best.  The dude behind the bar could use a shot of enthusiasm/salesmanship/showmanship/life.  Grade: D- (Why not an “F”?  Their saving grace is that it’s really close to “The Sweetest Thing” Cupcakes.  While no Kara’s, they’re pretty tasty, as you’ll see, and do a great job making up for Rex Hill’s lackluster wines.)

Tyrus Evans Tasting Room:  They offer Ken Wright pinot tastings, which is pretty bawler.  However, they only sell Ken Wright pinots by the six-pack, which is WAY expensive.  We decided against the pinot tasting because we didn’t want to be tempted by something that we could never afford.  They also offer Tyrus Evans tastings, which are non-pinot wines crafted by Ken Wright – that intrigued us so we did it.  Conclusion: Ken Wright should stick to pinots.  (g chimes in:  Actually, this is the one tasting I regret – we should have done the Ken Wright pinots just to do ‘em.  Who cares if we can’t afford them – what other chance would we have had to have tasted them all?)  Other than that, there really is nothing remarkable about this location, as its just a random building in a sparsely populated town.  Do it if you’re there, but we don’t think it’s worth going out of your way for it.  Grade: C (B if you go for the Ken Wright pinots)

Day 3:

Domaine Drouhin:  If you absolutely want to do a winery tour but do NOT want to pay Adelsheim’s cost (and want a better view), then this is the place to go ($25pp).  Yes, this is one of the “big” Oregon wineries, so everyone-and-their-mother goes there … but they do a nice job!  They even let you do a comparative tasting of Oregon pinots vs. French Burgundies (you need to call ahead for the “Drouhin Experience”)!  The people are nice.  The facilities are large and spotless.  The view is impressive.  And, of course, the wines are pretty tasty, even if they are a little commonplace.  They get bonus points, however, for starting us off with a glass of rose for the tour – now THAT’s what I like to see.  I’m happy we went!  This place is good for a tour or even just for a tasting.  Grade: A- (Is it snobby of me that I’m docking them points for not having rarer or more exclusive wines?  Probably.)

Domaine Serene:  This was the biggest let-down of the Oregon trip.  The tour/tastings are NOT cheap.  And for how much people hyped the new facilities, we have to say that we weren’t impressed, as it’s clear that they cheesed it up with their beaucoup bucks instead of having true style (e.g. it’s not that Domaine Serene is “ugly” – it’s not at all – but it’s like they’re trying oh-so-hard to make you feel like you’ve been transported to some sort of grand chateau … meanwhile, for example, Quintessa in California is a far more beautiful winery with superior design/functionality).  But it didn’t stop there – for me, the biggest disappointment was the wines.  After reading so much about Domaine Serene and all of their pinot success, I expected to walk out of their with several bottles and a depleted bank account.  But no!  The wines were shockingly boring (topping out at “good” for the ’08 Evenstad) – even the ones that got rave reviews from wine critics!  Gasp!  Ultimately, I understand that Domaine Serene draws a big crowd (people fall for the marketing), however, I say that if you absolutely must go, then just show up, enjoy the view (the view is pretty – similar to Domaine Drouhin), have a tasting at the wine bar (i.e. skip the tour), mark it on your checklist as “done”, and save your money for other wineries.  Grade: D+ (B if all you’re going for is a view and tasting).

Alexana Winery:  We were told about this place by John at Abbey Road Farms; given his lifetime of wine-related experiences, we took his recommendation seriously.  The story behind the winery is interesting: an Indian cardiologist somehow accrues/spends a whole lot of money on top-notch vineyards/wineries in Oregon, California, and Argentina and then proceeds to employ some very famous winemakers to create what he believes are “the best possible wines” from his land.  I don’t know how he does it, but man, this guy seems like he spared no expense.  Now I know that this kind of strategy might turn a lot of people off, as he’s basically a very wealthy person who is enthusiastic/obsessive about wine, and not technically a farmer/oenologist, himself.  I, too, had my doubts, because I’d prefer it if wine was made from love, not money.  But let me tell you that after tasting these wines, I no longer cared about who was making the wine, because they were fantastic!  I’ll be keeping my eye on this winery, for sure.  On top of that, the views were great (and we could see Abbey Road Farms from the tasting room!) and the facilities were brand new (still undergoing construction).  Sure, the wines do creep up in price, matching those of Domaine Serene and Adelsheim, but if I had to splurge on a bottle of wine, it’d be from here (actually we did splurge … on several bottles …).  Grade: A (could have been an A+ if the wines were a bit cheaper … that and if they got rid of the rather cheesy promotional materials that use the caduceus – those were pretty lame <I’m sure g would be happy to design a far superior logo/label if they’d pay her in Riesling and Pinot Noir>).

So where would we go on a second trip?  Or where would we recommend wine snobs go on a first trip?
We’d do Alexana, Carlton Winemakers Studio, Tyrus Evans Tasting Room (the Ken Wright that got away …), and we’d branch out to others like Penner-ash and Winderlea (the winemaker Robert Brittan has quite a reputation for great wines).  We’d also check out a winery or two at the Gorge (e.g. Syncline).

Where would recommend for non-snob first-timers?
–If visiting one place: Domaine Drouhin (yea, it’s none-too-exclusive, but I can’t fault them for doing a good job – and book the “Drouhin Experience” if you want a private tasting – it’s fun!)
–If visiting two places: Erath and Alexana (they’re close to one another and run the range from cheap to expensive)
–If you really want to see what Miles was blabbering about about pinot noir in the movie Sideways: add on Carlton Winemakers Studio

Ok … the next post … FOOD … it’ll be more interesting – I promise!

best. news. ever.

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t says:  So, after our “best. mail. ever.” post, I have often wondered what would come along and be even awesomer than having a Han Dynasty closer to my workplace … and now I have it: FedNuts moving closer to me.  It’s on like Donkey Kong.

a says:  You lucky ______s …

Written by afterdinnersneeze

23 May 2012 at 5:51pm

Posted in Happenings

Tagged with ,

The Oregon Trail: Outbound Flight and Digs

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t says:  g and I have just returned from our trip to Oregon and it was awesome!  We’ve decided to recount some of our voyage here for you because there was a ton of fun to be had, including good food, good wine, and lots of stories.  Rather than give you the day-by-day, I’m going to group together some of the like experiences so that it doesn’t seem like we did the same thing every day (e.g. wake up, eat, drink, eat, drink, eat, drink, sleep).  Plus, it’ll help us remember what made certain attractions different from others (e.g. the differences between wineries, restaurants, etc).

We started our trip to PDX with a 6am flight to Newark.  That’s right: our destination was Portland, but we had to fly east to Newark first for a 1-hr layover, and then fly directly to PDX.  This is humorous/stupid for a few reasons.  The first is that it’s kind of a waste of time to put up with air travel for such a short commute; I’d bet we’d spend more time boarding and de-boarding the plane than actually in the air.  Furthermore, I’d also be willing to bet that a bus would get us to the Newark airport faster at 6am.  The second bit of humor/stupidity is the cost.  Direct flights from PHL to PDX are in excess of $800, while the above one-stop flight was below $300.  I tried to get crafty and find some way to drive to Newark the morning for a flight directly to PDX … and found that that, too, costs over $800.  I contemplated just booking the PHL –> Newark –> PDX flight and just catching the Newark–>PDX leg, but feared that they might cancel our seats or something if we didn’t show up in PHL … Alas, we just “went with it” and flew from PHL to PDX via Newark … leading us to the last bit of funny … g and I were super-psyched that we were in seats 8A and 8B for the first leg, because that’d mean that we’d be towards the front of the plane, so we’d have an opportunity to de-board quickly at Newark so we could scramble to our next gate.  Turns out that the plane only had 9 rows.  Nine rows!  This plane was t-i-n-y (e.g. I knew every seat was full because I could easily SEE every seat).  It was so tiny that ALL wheely luggage carry-ons had to be checked.  As a matter of fact, it was SO tiny that it still had real-deal, legit propellers on the wings!  Propellers!  Had our phones been on, we would have provided you with a pic!

Fortunately, everything went off without a hitch.  We landed in Newark and caught our flight to PDX.  At around 4 hours or so, we had confirmation that we were indeed heading west, as this is what the window showed:

pretty mountain!

Now, upon landing in PDX, we were faced with our first real decision: which compact rental car to choose?  There was a grey Chevy Aveo.  And a yellow Fiat.  I was rooting for the Fiat.  g was rooting for any car that wasn’t yellow.  Conclusion: Chevy Aveo won.  I guess we’ll just have to Fiat another time … (we would have taken a picture, however, the dude right behind us in line HAD to go with the Fiat because there was no other compact car available after we took the Aveo, and we didn’t want to rub it in his face).  As a sidenote, g admits that had the Fiat been red, she would have done it in a heartbeat.

After this, there was some wine-tasting and some eating, but we’ll get to those in a future posts …

We eventually checked in to our overnight accommodations for the wine country leg of the trip.  We chose Abbey Road Farms Bed and Breakfast!

the entrance to Abbey Road Farm

metal chicken sculptures hiding amongst the shade to greet guests

and there’s REAL chickens, too!

see!  real live chickens!

the guest rooms are IN these converted silos!

Ok, so the above pic needs some explaining.  The proprietors had these old grain silos turned into rooms – and they’re all connected to a common foyer.  When we told lc about this, she wasted no time in sharing her opinion that this was insanely gimicky but perfect because there’s a sucker born every minute (thus implying that g and I are suckers).  That’s ok lc – we know that you’re just jealous that YOU didn’t get to stay in grain silos.  Now, we didn’t take any pictures of our room (plenty of pictures on their kind-of-dated website), but it was well-appointed with a good amount of space, heated floors, jacuzzi tubs, and extraordinarily comfy beds (seriously – it’s the first time we’ve ever had no complaints about beds while traveling).  It was actually nice and very clean.  Also, the view from our room (the Alpine Room, which apparently has the best view) was pretty frickin’ awesome:

alpine room view on a clear day (and you can see the patio we used for dining) – picturesque vineyards stretch out to the left, but we couldn’t fit them in the picture …

the sunrise in the morning (check out the fog)

So now you must be wondering: “What’s ‘the deal’ with Abbey Road farm?”  There’s a farm and there’s a BnB.  Together.  It’s a pretty cute place!  The farm is small but legit (it has chickens, alpacas, llamas, sheep – all roaming about certain sections of the land).  The farm’s proprietors, John and Judi, are a super-sweet couple who just really wanted to own a farm and found that they had the means to do so … and so they did!  From what we gathered, John (a very nice man) is full of ideals and further allowed to live out those ideals by virtue of having made a crap-ton of money in Las Vegas (something to do with insurance companies and hotel management).  However he attained the funds to buy the place, we don’t care, because the experience was absolutely wonderful.  We do want to note that John admits that he runs a “Gucci farm” – meaning that while he and his wife have done their best to learn and perform the activities necessary for farming, they do enlist the help of others to make sure things are done properly.  I’m not sure who’s idea the BnB side of the property came from, but however it came to be, it’s very well executed.  The rooms had everything we needed, the breakfasts were tasty and filling, the price was reasonable, and it was so pretty/peaceful that we often just brought back food to the BnB to eat on that patio while gazing into the distance (it was so much better than staying at a room in some hotel in one of the tiny towns like Dundee or McMinnville).  As a sidenote, this property is also next to Trappist Abbey, which John somehow helped to become a perpetually preserved/conserved land, so no matter now commercial Oregon becomes due to the wine trade, he’ll always have trees in his back yard.  Brilliant!  More sidenotes: they make their own goat’s milk cheese (the lemon zest chevre is AWESOME), and John’s currently trying to bring a farmer’s market to the property for locals and foodies to enjoy.

Trust us: we’d happily go back to Abbey Road Farms in the future – it’s the perfect accommodation for visiting wine country.  We hope they’ll still be there next time!

We did send some time in Portland on our trip as well, requiring a one-night stay in one of the city’s many hotels.  We got a great deal on The Nines using Expedia so we jumped on it.  Here’s the rundown:
–The Good:  Super-clean.  The staff is super-uber-nice/helpful/kind – it’s like they are trying their hardest to give the impression that they’re the Ritz or something – we give them an A+ for effort.  There’s a pretty fancy-looking restaurant in there – we wouldn’t recommend it when there are so many restaurants with such high praises in Portland, but it’s nice to know that there’s a back-up plan.
–The Bad:  Their logo, which is apparently a wonkified number “9″ is pretty stupid-looking.  It’s ok, g and I turned all of the items in our room with that logo (e.g. coasters, pads of paper) upside-down, so they resembled the letter “G” instead.  How fitting.  They’re also trying way too hard to be chic – resorting to a lot of “first year in art school” type pictures/paintings/thingamajigs hanging on the walls to give them a more “modern”/”hip”/”cool” aesthetic – we weren’t fooled by their faux coolness.
–The Scary/Hilarious: After returning from dinner, we walked into our hotel room only to find that the lights were on, the TV was on, and my luggage was wide open with my clothes all strewn about.  My first thought: “HOLY CRAP – WE’VE BEEN ROBBED!!” – my mind started racing through the valuables we had with us (i.e. laptop, iPad, wine, g’s clothes).  It turns out that we were not robbed, rather, turndown service had happened, which involves turning on the nightstand lights and turning the TV to some sort of classical music station for ambience.  And the luggage … that was just me forgetting to put it away before we left for dinner (or as g would put it: “just being a slob”).  g apparently at no point thought we had been robbed and automatically assumed it was turndown service.  Oops.
–The Summary:  The Nines is a great hotel in a good downtown location, but it does isolate you from the real “culture” or Portland (i.e. anything seen in the tv series Portlandia).  Great restaurants are to the east and the parks are to the west, so it’s kind of in the middle of where you want to go to do things, however, it’s close to Voodoo Donuts and Stumptown Coffee and Powell’s City of Books so it’s not like you’re in the middle of nowhere.  I feel that if we had to go to Portland, we’d do The Nines again if we found it at a sale price (it’s very expensive otherwise).

Well, that’s it for now – stay tuned for the next two installments: the wine, and the food.

Written by afterdinnersneeze

21 May 2012 at 9:23am

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