Archive for the ‘Restaurant Reviews’ Category
mon cheri, Le Cheri
t says: The gang (a, v, g, and me) had the good fortune of going to Le Cheri on its second night open. Would the Calmels be able to breathe some life into the ridiculously awesome location just off Rittenhouse that had been seemingly cursed to fail? (RIP Gardenia and Rittenhouse Tavern). Let’s find out …
November 2013, Thursday Dinner, Party of 4. We were happy to see lots of familiar faces, like our favorite server Ricky and Charlotte and Pierre. They seated us promply (we had made a last-minute reservation through opentable, so I’m not sure they were expecting us), and gave us their menu. The first impression was that this was a much larger space than Bibou. While we knew it from going to previous restaurants in this location, I forgot just how much additional space there was. The second was that the decor was a little haphazard. On one hand there were sizable wine glasses, white tablecloths, and darker woods, but on the other, the walls were a peculiar color and the finishes weren’t as nearly upscale. So was this place supposed to be more casual than Bibou – more like a bistro? But can you really be more casual than Bibou? Hmmmm – it’s only the first week, so we’ll see how things shake out with the decor. No – we’re not expecting something as sensation as a Starr-ified or Garces-ified restaurant, but at least with a little bit more focus.
Now for the food:

these little cheese ravioli and buttery sauce were amazing. they were like little puffs made to carry the buttery sauce to your mouth. It was a delicious and rich dish that still had a hint of ?chive?/herby length. Wonderful! And they coupled so exquisitely with our wine of the evening: 2012 Massican “Sauvignon” Sauvignon Blanc. The wine, made by Dan Petroski, had a broader palate than the lightning-in-a-bottle 2011, but still finishes with a snap of citrus so forceful it could give you whiplash. It cut straight through the butter like a frickin’ lazer. B-e-a-u-tiful.

welcome to the new escargot: as you can see, this is very different than the normal escargots than one can find at Bibou – gone is the classic snail-like dish, and in its place is a shallow bowl where the escargots are paired with chicken “oysters”, cauliflower, and some kind of parsley-laden broth. And let me tell you that this was CRAZY-good. It was much lighter than any rendition of escargots that Bibou has ever had, and the snails are smaller … BUT, the light and lively flavors danced on forever on my tongue. I was forced to savor the seconds that went by. If only the snails were a smidge larger …

this blurry picture is of the lamb pat-au-feu. The broth was deep and lamby, while the pieces of lamb were moist and tender. I wish that the sweetbreads had some color on them to add some depth, but overall this was a solid dish.

this blurry picture was the most surprising dish of the evening: boudin noir. While it looks like a puddle of fudge or poo or whatever, I assure you that this was mindbendingly surprising. I imagined that boudin would be very hearty or rich, especially after having boudin at other restaurants. However, with a single spoonful, it was apparent that there was one part of thick rich boudin and one part of a light fruitiness (no, not literal “fruit” – more of a figurative light-and-agile-like-a-fruit. I’m not sure how this is accomplished, but both a and I were stunned. It’s worth trying again because I want to be able to understand it better.
The unpictured dish was the short rib and pasta which was downright amazing. It’s everything that you’d imagine a pasta by Pierre could be. The shortrib was perfectly cooked, as was the pasta. I thought I was sitting in Melograno or something (except the portions were much larger here). Very nice indeed.
We did get a chance to chit-chat with Pierre, and while we were privileged to pick his brain and get some insight into the inner workings of Le Cheri and Bibou, we won’t put it here – we don’t wanna start any rumors. We’re just happy to be able to talk with Pierre to show him the smiles that the food he cooked put on our faces …
So yes … go to Le Cheri – and live up that BYO-ness while you can!
Noord
t says: Last weekend, g and I hit up Noord with bw and some mutual friends. We had heard great things, and because we were itching to BYO-it-up, it was the perfect opportunity. When thinking of which wines to bring, we encountered a little bit of difficulty. While I gravitate towards red as a matter of preference, and while the weather favors drinking a nice rich luscious red, I couldn’t help but wonder whether something white would go better with Noord’s foods. But wait – isn’t it cold in the North Sea? We had no choice but to bring one of each: bubbly rose, white, and red. And what a great decision it was:
November 2013, Sunday Dinner, Party of 5. Right off the bat, the five of us encountered a serious problem at Noord. What to order!? Each of us had first, second, and third-string choices. And then there were some great-sounding specials on top of that! (There was a striped bass that sounded amazing). In the end, we did finally manage to make our selections … from which here is a selection of photos:

Uitsmitjer (?”Oits-might-er?): open faced egg sandwich. This was a wonderfully heart and homey way to start th emeal. Actually – it was so oomphy, that I could have eaten it as a main course for a breakfast or a lunch. I enjoyed it quite a bit – reminding me quite a bit of the now-gone Cochon’s brunch fave, Eggs Cochon. And the side salad almost made it feel healthy – with the crunch of fresh vegetables and the sour of vinegar. I paired it with an Australian dry Riesling that was quite nice – some good petrol zip and lightly tropical fruit (kind of like a lighter New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc). Altogether, the course was rich, but with a certain amount of restraint, but not at all “delicate”. Hell – it was just a piece of bread, some egg, some cheese, and some pork – so I’m just going to move on …

Two of our tablemates split this appetzier which was an assortment of smoked fish, all served open-face style. And I know what you’re thinking: is everything an open-faced sandwich at Noord? No – but when they’re this interesting, why not?

My main was a massive piece of pork. Sure, there were some veggies underneath, but the star was clearly the slab of meat – and what a wonderfully ?braised? slab it was. The meat was fall-off-the-bone tender, but permeated with a nice stewed apple sauce. It was like fall on a plate. Big props to Noord for doing right by that hunk of pig.
There were other items, like a celery soup that g enjoyed, and the rabbit leg confit bw had … but let’s be honest – mine won. My only regret was that I wasn’t more hungry. It’s ok – I sense that I’ll be making me some braised pork omelettes later this week – yum!!
Now, as for dessert, I have to say that I wasn’t quite as impressed as Laban was. We ventured the doughnuts, which were a little more dense than I enjoy (Talula’s Garden kills it when it comes to dooughnuts) as well as the apple pie thing. bw, a masterful baker and general dessert enthusiast (although he did reveal to us his disdain for light-and-airy-cakes), did find that perhaps it was a caramel issue: he suspected that they could have “pushed” the caramel further, getting it to be a bit darker and deeper-flavored, and we all agreed – it was missing that last little bit of warmth that a darker caramel provides.
In all, we enjoyed the food at Noord. I’m not sure it’s going to replace any of our go-to’s, and it’s probably not going to replace Serpico as our newest “eat-here-now” fave, but if they do undergo a menu change next season, you can bet that we’ll be there! Their food was interesting and fun and worth getting to at least once!
i can’t believe it’s not butter … [or eggs … or dairy … or animal …]
t says: Now, for those who’ve read adsz for a while, you know a few things for certain.
#1) I’m not vegetarian.
#2) I’m certainly not vegan.
#3) I have no problems eating vegetarian/vegan for a meal or two (especially with good friends!) – but firmly believe that the goal is never to say, “wow! this is good for not having any animal products”, rather, just plain “wow! this is damn good [with no qualifications whatsoever]”.
So, when I went to Pure Fare a while ago, I ordered up two of their cookies – one was chocolate-avocado and the other was some kind of chocolate chip …
They. were. super. gross.
Their textures were horrible, the flavors were horrible, and the price was horrible. It was as if someone was playing a really mean practical joke on me (like making brownies with tofu). I swore off Pure Fare …
… until now …
You see, they started advertising Blue Bottle coffee, a coffee which I have loved oh-so-much, both in NYC and SF (we visit every time we go to SF!).
Pure Fare’s coffee isn’t quite as good as a real Blue Bottle’s coffee – I suspect the method of brewing is different. Yes, Pure Fare uses Chemex, but it still contains a little bit more astringence than a lot of the products I’ve had at Blue Bottle (now of course, with so many brews available, it’s possible that it could just be literally a different coffee – but it could be due to technique). Nevertheless, it’s close-by and tasty enough that I’ve had a mid-day cup on each of the past few days I was available.
But I wanted a little something to go with the coffee – a little bit of sweeet. As I looked at the pastries and cookies they had, I could here myself saying, “Fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me.” So I bit the bullet, preparing to feel the shame …

This is a sweet potato chocolate brownie. And to my surprise, it was delicious! Yes, it’s dense and rich, but in a good-dense-and-rich-brownie sort of way. It has intermittent chocolate chips. (?”intermittent” chocolate chips? what the hell kind of phrase is that? ugh – my worklife is invading my bloglife). It’s nice and moist. And no – there’s no essence of sweet potato anywhere. It won’t impress people who like the corner brownies (lookin’ at you, k), but for middle-of-the-pan brownie lovers like me, it’s great! Now it’s not going to usurp Ina Garten brownies, but as far as any store-bought or coffee-stand-bought brownies are concerned, I was very impressed.
The CRAZY part is that this is supposed to be a vegan item. I’m no vegan expert, but I assume that means that there’s no butter or eggs or dairy. So I’m not sure where the moisture is coming from – vegetable oil and sweet potato? Beats me! (Or if I was talking about their other chocolate pastry, it’d be “Beets me!”).
So maybe I’ll give Pure Fare some more props now, and maybe even try some other items in the future. Just keep the Blue Bottle goin and I’ll be comin’ back for more …
serpico played us like a fiddle
t says: g and I were in the mood for a good date-night, but didn’t want to mess around with corkage fees. Fortunately, Serpico had space on a Friday night; we were stoked! We walked in to an essentially empty restaurant, sat down, ordered up some dishes we had never had before, and let the barrage begin …
November 2013, Friday Dinner, Party of 2.

raw fluke: this crazy fluke dish brought a smile to g’s face at first bite as she said “i love it when someone knows what to do with celery”. Apparently that “what” is to shave it and serve it with some fluke so that the vegetal zing and fishy brineness shine against the savory broth. A beautifully balanced dish – bravo! g’s other quote: “you should get in on this or I’m going to eat it all” …

the pig tail special got my attention with gouchuchang – i knew I had to order it. Overall, it was quite impressive, with lots of flavors built on top of an incredibly unctuous slab of meat (and bones). The polenta, soaked in that ridiculously, was so good that my only wish was to have some bread to soak up the drips left over on the plate.

for the main, g and i couldn’t help but repeat the slab of wagyu chuck we had last time. yea – it’s still wicked awesome.

to beef up the roughage of our meal (ha ha – good joke, right?), we went with the fairly expensive vegetable plate (21 dollars!!) There was no way it’d be worth it, right? WRONG. This dish of vegetables was quite filling, with umami bombs (mushrooms), good bitter greens, sweet onions (g love-love-loved the onions), and a reminder the i need to cook more cauliflower. Vedge better watch out, because this stood up to the beef dish, bite for bite.
g and I finished with the rocky road, which was a nice, simple finish to an otherwise “fancy” meal. With chocolate ice cream, toasted marshmallow, and candied nuts, it didn’t stand a chance!
Now, the food at Serpico was fabulous. And, with the BYO-ness, g and I were so deeply engaged in conversation that 2 hours went by *snaps his fingers* just like that! We paid the bill but continued to linger over a cup of coffee. At that 2 hour mark, the general manager came by and politely asked how the meal was, and then offered to buy us a glass of dessert wine. In my head, I figured we were at our limit of EtOH consumption, so I responded, “no thanks! we’re actually just getting ready to leave!”. Just as I said that, it clicked in my head what he had actually said, “May I please offer you another drink – maybe a glass of dessert wine – at our bar?” He was a smooth operator because it did not click in my head that there was actually quite a crowd of people at the bar, all waiting for their dinner reservations. Oops! Our bad! g and I got up and headed towards the door. And on the way out, the GM palmed me his business card and said, “the next time you come in, please just mention me in the reservation – we will be sure to get you a free drink or dessert or something – please – take me up on the offer”. Nice! No hard feelings on our part at all! And maybe – just maybe – we WILL take him up on that offer!
you had me at … “cheese dinner”
t says: Jamonera is a tough subject here at adsz because we had one bad experience with g, kp, and me, followed by two good experiences with a and v. And with how strong Barbuzzo and Lolita are/were, the bar is set pretty high.
g and I waited for a revisit, and boy did the opportunity present itself:

With a menu like that, featuring cheese in multiple preparations, this was obviously just baiting me to come and try. Now, because there are so many dishes, a blow-by-blow account would be far too tedious, so let’s cut to the highs and lows …

The three dishes for the first course were a pretty solid way to start us off, with the salad being the healthiest thing we had the entire night. Fortunately, it was a well constructed salad with enough acid and fruit to reset the palate after what was essentially the best fried mozzarella stick (n.b. not mozzarella) I’ve ever had. The cheese-stuffed, bacon-wrapped date, however, was just too much – I couldn’t handle more than one due to the sheer richness (I never thought I’d want mmoorree date). It really broke my spirit to know that I was going to let that one get away … Do note that we did bring our own wine and suffer the agony of a corkage fee, but for Dan Petroski’s absolutely sublime blend of Italian grapes (with a smidge of Chardonnay), it was sooo worth it. It’s floral edge and fist of electric citrus was exactly what we needed to cut the cheese …

This was the best item of course number two – it was a mix of stupidly simple and flavor-filled brilliance that kept us oscillating between “we could do this at home” and “omg, this is soooooo good”.

The third course would probably split the gang. g liked the pork flatbread thingee. The shortrib was probably my favorite, but I sensed that a really enjoyed the rice. No matter which way you cut it, the bottom line is that if anyone was “pacing” themselves through the courses to ensure they would have room for everything, it all came to an end as all of us filled our bellies to within a micron of bursting … And we still had leftovers … AND the cheese/dessert course!
Now I have to say that I felt the cheese course, ironically, was the weakest course. While that cheese+Nutella was the absolute most perfect combo of flavor so had all night, the cheese with the berry compote was lackluster and had a weird texture, and the third cheese was pretty much an afterthought. It’s ok though – we were full so we weren’t sad to leave some cheese behind!
So, in summary, Jamonera did a wonderful job with a large majority of the plates. And even the ones that weren’t-as-good were not actually at all that bad. The meat cookery was top notch. The service was attentive. Really, outside of the corkage fee, the Jamonera has totally redeemed itself in our eyes. Now I’m not sure if they’re going to go toe-to-toe against Amada, but I’m sure they’d give Amada a run for its money. Good job Jamonera. Keep up the good work! (And ditch the cheese course … and keep the Nutella).
“be nice or leave!”
t says: While g and I were partying it up in Napa and SF, a and v went to NOLA. So let’s let the good times roll …
a & v say:
On Day 1, we went to Crabby Jack’s. This was the first stop after touchdown since this is on the way downtown from the airport. This is definitely a “local’s place” when it comes to shrimp po’ boys, but the duck is a speciality, too. Found in an industrial section about a mile from the water, the inside can be described as New Orleans chic. Service is no frills order ‘n’ sit but the staff is always helpful & polite.
We split a king (size) shrimp po’ boy & a side of jambalaya, and were stuffed. This is a standard po’ boy with tons of fried shrimp, just enough fixins, and crispy French bread – no distractions. The andouille/chicken jambalaya was flavorful and simple, I only wish the portion was bigger. All in all, a great place to start your NOLA holiday and get some authenticity.
We also made a quick stop at d’Juice on Oak Street to get our smoothy on. Highly recommended for those wanting their fruits/veggies in an easily digestible and mobile format.
We started Day 2 at O’Delice on Magazine Street, the quintessential French bakery, if quintessential means having an affable Vietnamese owner. Get the almond croissant, trust us.
Later, we went to Cochon Butcher. This place has ‘Philly sandwich joint’ written all over it (not to mention we have our own Cochon). The casual lunch option to the extremely successful restaurant, this place was packed. The line almost went out the door but we persevered due to the symphony of meats being slung before us. Another order ‘n’ sit spot, it took about 25 minutes for us to reach the register but a table opened-up right on cue. The wait for food was another 10 minutes but you don’t hear us complaining. Their solid drink menu (for a sandwich/meat shop) doesn’t hurt either.
We ordered the Muffaletta, Cubano, BLT, and Roast Beef sandwiches along with sides of cucumber salad and boudin. The BLT was the most simple but did not lack for flavor, mainly from the smoked bacon. Each sandwich was served on an appropriate and delicious bread/roll. The meat starred in every sandwich but the accoutrements made each lighter and brighter. Note to reader: Always order boudin in NOLA and don’t ask any questions. The cucumber salad, even though it was salad, also rocked and made us feel “healthy.”
My Pops couldn’t leave without buying the house made andouille (for his famous red beans ‘n’ rice). They have several other charcuterie options including lamb merguez along with cheeses and bar snacks. Who dat indeed.


















