my beef with Moore Bros.
t says: This post might hurt my credibility among wine enthusiasts in the Philly-SoJo area, but I have to do it … Here goes nothing …
I, like many others, frequent a cool little wine store called Moore Brothers. Right across the Ben Franklin Bridge, tucked away in an office park in Pennsauken NJ, is an entire store that is kept at “ideal wine temperature” (~55/56 degrees). It’s a pretty cool idea, and it gets the proprietor major points from wine geek customers. On top of that, co-owner Greg Moore has a lot of Philadelphia-centric history, having been sommelier at Le Bec-Fin back in its hayday, when it was the super-awesomest-restaurant-in-all-the-land. Then when he and his brother opened up Moore Brothers, it had this kitchy little shtick where it was going to sell little-known wines that offer bang-for-the-buck and were the exclusive product of sincere relationships with the growers/producers/winemakers. It was almost like you were directly supporting the farmers, themselves – kinda like a CSA … for wine … from other countries … And the staff is always very courteous and willing to help out in anyway they can, especially because the selection is so limited and there are no shelf-talkers.
a and his dad are big Moore Bros (MB) fans, and I have to say that I, too, have been known to buy quite a bit from MB (at current count, I have 7 bottles from them on hand). The cause of our addiction is those accursed emails … you see, if you get on the mailing list, your inbox gets filled to the brim with these lovely messages from Greg Moore. He talks about such-and-such vintner with whom he’s sharing a rack of lamb in Loire, or so-and-so farmer with whom he’s walking up and down the rows of vines in Bordeaux. Other times, he talks about eating at Philly restaurants like Russett and Bistro St. Tropez, so it’s like he’s “one of us” (except we’d never go to Bistro St. Tropez). And the descriptions! The descriptions! I swear that every wine he has ever sold has been the best wine ever made …
Want an example? You know you do. This one is probably my favorite example of a “gregmoore” (this is a new noun that we’ve made – let’s see if you can define it by the end of this post.)
gregmoore part 1: All MB emails like to open with something that makes you wish that you were Greg Moore. Wouldn’t you, too, like to visit a chateau and dine in the glorious outdoors with winemakers? Of course you do! So do I! And then maybe there’s a subconscious implication that gets buried in your brain: if I buy this wine, I can be like Greg Moore. I could be dining with the people in the picture! I could capture their happiness with a single glass of this wine. And who doesn’t want a glass of pure happiness? … Oh – wait – the wine! Yes! That’s right! This email is about wine. Note how nothing is actually mentioned about the wine or vintage or anything … not yet … all that gets saved for the second half of his email – you know – just in case you were planning on drinking the contents of the bottle and not just rubbing it to wait for a genie to pop out so you can wish for that magic carpet to get you to Provence ..
gregmoore part 2: Ah, there we go – the second part. Whereas the first part’s goal was to get you in the mood, the second part is where he puts on the moves. The words begin to fly, making you lust for the wine in question. “Cowboy dreamer” turned winemaker. “Incredible, park-like estate”. Perfect “physiologic maturity”. “Organic” practice, with a twist of “biodynamics”. And then the bolded words: “polished copper in candlelight” “wild strawberries” “apricot skin”. I mean, while I may be guilty of picking weird flavors in my descriptions, Moore’s descriptions are more elaborate than that for a J. Peterman Himalayan Walking Shoe (Seinfeld, anyone?).
But you know what – I’m actually ok with gregmoores like the above. I like the romanticism, the enthusiasm, the fun. I even loved it when MB would take pot-shots at other wine critics, especially Parker, as it meant that at least they had a firm opinion on what they felt were good wines, and what they felt were overrated wines. And even as I grew weary of the gregmoores in my inbox over the years, I was still a fan of their tastings and great meet-the-maker visits (when I could make them), so it was worth keeping in the loop. Plus, I have to say that MB does have some great wines (e.g. every Riesling that a picks up from them) that justify all of the other verbosity.
BUT …
There is one thing that has made me swear off MB – and I’ve seen it time and time again:
Greg Moore’s take on the 2012 Chablis b Domaine Pinson …
… is identical to his take on the 2011 Chablis from Domaine Pinson! Someone went through the effort to change the date of the Greg Moore tasting note, but not actually any of the description! For Shame! If it’s just recycling the vintner’s note, then say so (but even still, the vintner’s note shouldn’t be the same from year to year!).
Electronic gregmoores are also similarly recycled! I must have read the same frickin’ grain-of-salt email 4 times over the years (those who are on the email list know exactly what I’m talking about). And should he be writing about a new vintage from the a producer written about in the past, much like the above, they reuse the SAME tasting note! I understand that producers try to carry forward very similar styles of wine from year to year, but not every year is going to have “Braeburn apples, hazelnuts, apricots, and brioche moving in and out of the foreground”. Maybe one year it’ll be a Pink Lady apple, or a Gala apple, or a frickin’ Red Delicious! All this has made me sad. I trusted MB to be on my side. Yes, that’s naive as hell (MB is a business, after all), but I at least wanted honesty out of the relationship. You may have some great wines in your store, sir, but it doesn’t change the fact that you lied to me. It’s over. I’ve unsubscribed from your emails, moved all of your past emails to my spam folder, scorned you on my blog, and deleted your number from my iPhone. (And I’m keeping your wine.)
Manly Epicurean Adventure
t says: I had the opportunity to visit Napa with kp and another colleague (our fourth, a, bailed at the last minute), but only for a day; we had a lot of stuff to cram in a single afternoon+evening. Realizing that our better halves were unable to join us, we nicknamed it “the manly epicurean adventure”. Below is a recap of all we conquered:
First thing we did was conquer brunch at Zazie. We killed some bread pudding pancakes that were out of control. On one hand, some were put off by the soft almost-mushy texture of the pancake, but I loved every bit of it (it was like real bread pudding!). I likened the experience to eating forkfuls of sweet sweet banana-laden clouds …
Zazie also served up some poached eggs which we wasted no time pillaging. One had the equivalent of salsa and bacon, while the other had tomato and prosciutto. Beautifully balanced salty-savory-acid in both cases – could not think of anything worth improving upon. We now know why there is a line to get into Zazie when they open at 9am on a Sunday.
Our first Napa destination was Ma(i)sonry, but have no photos, as we’ve already photo’d the bejesus out of it on the blog. My tastes must have changed over the past 6 months because this time, I was drawn to less fruit-forward cabs, favoring instead some well-done 2011’s with the right balance of acid and fruit. Funny how things change. Overall, Maisonry was a fantastic way to get in the mood for the cabs of Napa (the gang preferred reds to whites, so that’s what we focused on). Our second tasting of the day, at Paloma, courtesy of hookups by a and a’s dad, is pictured above. We could have listened to Barb, the proprietor, for hours upon hours, with her stories from 31 years in the valley. As you can see, her view is incredible (the tasting is literally at her house). Her wines were impressive expressions of Merlot, inspiring us to walk away with a few bottles in hand. A great visit!
In contrast to Paloma, MacDonald Vineyards, our third and final visit for the day, was a super-tiny cottage hidden amongst the vines …
… and some gnarly old vines at that! As Graeme and Alex walked us around, it was exciting to hear their story. It was hard to not catch their infectious enthusiasm. This was not one of those times where the goal was to wow you into believing that they were the end-all-be-all of vine mastery, rather, humble pupils who recognize that they have a unique opportunity to make great wine from hallowed land. These guys are young, they have no obligation to any sort of winemaking legacy, and they have open minds … in the world of wine, they are dangerous as hell … in a good way …
There’s no tasting room at MacDonald – instead there’s a picnic bench under a giant tree next to some vines. I cannot imagine a more perfect setting. Even when these guys do get around to building a winery and a cellar and a tasting room, I hope they never lose that sense of chatting around a wicker basket and vinyl tablecloth. I have to say that out of every tasting I’ve ever had, this was probably the most personal. I don’t know if it’s because my tablemates had already consumed ample amounts of wine throughout the day (I spit at every tasting, so I was DD), but the conversations meandered from wine to friends to weightlifting to medicine to bachelor parties and back to wine. Before we knew it, the sun had set and we were near-shivering … now that is a tasting!
Oh … and the wine … we had the opportunity to sample the 2011 MacDonald Cab, which was really a treat. Not to be released until Fall 2014, I have to say that this was easily the best wine we had all day, and we had had wines from multiple talented winemakers (Thomas Rivers Brown, Melka, Jeff Ames, Pahlmeyer) over multiple vintages from multiple sites! My companions agreed. But beware – this is no fruit bomb or berry milkshake; certainly no oak monster here. Bright red-and-dark fruits up front saturate the palate with silky tannins so smooth that you forget they’re there; the fruit is followed by a mouthwatering, moderate-length finish of cool-vintage cab flavors that dance on the palate. As time passed, it took on even more layers of flavor, including herbs and baking spices. Overall, it’s a feminine expression of cab, but don’t construe that as “wimpy”, rather, think of that seasoned, graceful principal ballerina, floating across the stage … no one would dare call her “wimpy” – she’s just ridiculous at making it look effortless.
We had visited Oakville Grocer earlier in the day for a cheese break (after all, with all the wine we had been tasting, we needed a little something in our stomachs), but when it was dinner time, we needed to get some serious grub. I picked out Bistro Jeanty – a Yountville staple at reasonable prices. And that night, they were on fire. The above escargots were amazing, exceeding the deliciousity, texture, and size of Bibou’s. Similarly, the bone marrow in the background with that red wine sauce was absolutely stunning – made oh-so-simply but so profoundly flavorful that I could have eaten every single piece if allowed; once again, it bested even Bibou’s bone marrow.
Bistro Jeanty’s momentum carried through the main courses. My lamb was perfectly prepared, coupled with blue cheese potatoes and green beans …
… and kp’s cassoulet surprised the hell out of everyone. On the menu, it sounded almost benign – like a “light bean dish” … except for, you know, the hidden duck confit, bacon, and garlic sausage … Oh, and the beans that could have potentially been healthy? Not no more – because all the fat from those meats had to go somewhere …
Dessert was of high caliber – maybe not as crazy as the first two courses, but still damn good. The chocolate creme brulee struck again (I loved it before when I had it), and the lemon tart was so close to being perfect (the orange marmalade-ish sauce was confusing – they should have kept it lemon … or maybe gone lime … but orange was weird).
Don’t let the above picture mislead you: I was sad that g wasn’t there – she would have loved it. And of course we missed a … but … be that as it may, I’m pretty sure I can say that Man Trip 2014 was a success!
Rex 1516 does brunch right!
t says: Ah, Sunday morning brunch … who doesn’t love eating brunch on a Sunday morning? Well – as much as people enjoy eating brunch on Sunday, the truth of the matter is that finding a venue is difficult. You want to go to Honey’s on South? You have a better chance getting in if you blasted through the wall from the neighboring petshop. Sabrina’s? Good luck – they serve enough French toast per platter so that patrons can sit and linger over two meals worth of time. Or even cute little ‘ol Day by Day? Beware – they start seating people a good 10 minutes before they’re open. So what’s a hungry person to do at, let’s say, noon? Well, with bw, g, and another friend, we decided to let Yelp help our cause … and before we knew it, we were walking down the treacherous ice-laden sidewalks to Rex 1516.
February 2014, Sunday Brunch, Party of 4. The place is kinda cool – it just sneaks up on ya’ as you’re walking. They do have one of those ridiculous golden stands outside with a menu, but I would have walked right by it had I not been forced to count down the blocks (each block was another opportunity for me to fall on my butt and look like an idiot).
The atmosphere is dark, by virtue of the exposed brick and dark (but well-worn) wooden floors. Pretty cool bar scene, probably. As far as the menu, it was chocked full of what I like to call New-Orleans-to-the-Extreme! There’s shrimp and grits … with pork belly. Biscuits and gravy … using “everything bagel biscuits”. Chicken and waffles … benedict. I’m ok with New Orleans-to-the-Extreme – I wanted to eat everything. But, first things first – before I could go for creative dishes, I went with something potentially easy: Bananas Foster French Toast. Just take some French Toast and toss it in some Bananas Foster, right? Nope – make the French Toast out of Banana Bread while you’re at it. The result was DELICIOUS. Visually, it looked like a large plate of “brown”, so they aren’t going to win any beauty contests with this dish, but it tasted wonderful. I don’t think I’ve been this happy with a brunch dish since Cochon (R.I.P.). And my brunchmates seemed as if they enjoyed their selections, and each voiced an opinion that it’s definitely worth coming to again. Because of this, we went back to Rex 1516 1-2 weeks later … this time with sr and ha!
February 2014, Sunday Brunch, Party of 4. This time, I took pictures:
Chicken and waffles benedict: An interesting combination, I will say that that chicken was aggressively seasoned – verging on being too salty. Fortunately, the chicken was tender underneath its fried shell, and the waffle, egg, and Hollondaise were spot on. However, the dish only really sang when I added a dash of maple syrup to give me someone other than rich-rich-richness, allowing me to enjoy enjoy the piece that ha gave me. I’m a fan if they can tone down the salt on the chicken.
“everything bagel” bidscuits and sausage gravy: I had high hopes for this dish, but I suspect it was because I I was expecting the biscuits to be more bagel-y. The only similarities it has with an everything bagel is that someone sprinkled some toppings on the biscuit. Sorry Rex, that’s not an everything bagel, so much as an everything biscuit. Fortunately, the biscuit, itself, was quite good (good texture on the outside, soft on the inside – everything a biscuit should be !), as was the sausage gravy and poached egg. All in all, a solid dish that I wound definitely try again, but with the knowledge that it’s a very rich dish: buttery biscuit, the hearty gravy, and runny egg – I almost didn’t finish mine!
huevos: g went for the huevos this time. They were solid, but nothing extra-special – she actually preferred her po’ boy the week before.
So I guess the second time around, we came across some dishes that were “good”/”solid”/”well-done”, but not necessarily blow-me-away like the banana bread French toast. I do like some of the little spins they had to the chicken and waffles and the biscuits and gravy, but they could have been executed a little better; ultimately, I can’t say they were so addictively-good or head-and-shoulders-above options available at other brunch establishments in the city (and everyone knows how prone to hyperbole I am!). What I can say, however, is that they take reservations, they’re not crowded, and they have what seems to be a very intriguing wine list:
someone with eclectic tastes picked out this wine … i love it. While I haven’t tasted a any of the wines on the list [yet – I’m waiting for a real meal], I have to say that I admire audacity of the following moves: Colombard/Ugni Blanc as well as Picpoul de Penet – I’ve never had either, so I definitely want in on those. Pinot from Germany – well played – I’ve been hoping that someone would do this. Pinotage, Carmenere, and Bonarda – I like how you think! No malbec and no cab – very ballsy! While I think that a list like this is fun, I guarantee that patrons probably order “Chardonnay” and “Pinot Noir” the most due to recognition; I think they could generate more interest in the other wines by giving three simple flavors that are in the wines – kinda like Tria, but not as over-the-top – something like “cherry, strawberry, licorice”. In any case, with wines like these, now I know I have to come back.
lightning strikes again
t says: So, as I had foreshadowed at the end of the last post about PLCB’s 2011 Broadside Cab, I went back to buy another bottle to have as a good back-up. And while that seems easy enough, I happened to go on Valentine’s Day…
BIG.
MISTAKE.
(… HUGE!)
(g interrupts: t doesn’t understand how funny it was to reference this Pretty Woman line on Valentine’s Day … like in the movie Valentine’s Day)
The cashier line went straight across the store and curved down one of the aisles to the front windows. As I looked out the window with my bottles in hand, I couldn’t help but curse my bad luck and what would undoubtedly be a waste of precious Valentine’s Day time (g was cooking a splendid meal at home). An unintended effect of the line was that I was given the opportunity to essentially “tour” the store but looking up and down every aisle and reading every Chairman advertisement … smirking and muttering wise-ass remarks under my breath (I couldn’t help myself – the line put me in a foul mood) …
But then one wine caught my eye:
I’ve been really getting into some California wines that have been using Italian grapes, so this would be like Italians using … well … kinda-California grapes (not really – this region in Italy has been using sauvignon blanc, or “SB” as I’ll abbreviate it, for a while). And it was on sale! And those who know me know that I have really poor impulse control when it comes to sales (my entire work ensemble is composed of clothes I bought on sale – not one item was purchased not on sale, from shirt to shoes, outerwear to socks). Upon seeing this wine, a battle ensued on my shoulders: the angel shouted loud and clear, “don’t be stupid! don’t be stupid! it’s a ‘Chairman’s Selection’! you hate the Chairman!”, while the devil whispered, “but what if it’s delicious? maybe a will call it ‘impressive‘ and you’ll call it ‘interesting‘? and it’ll be a wine you found in a state store. and it’s inexpensive ... and then you can blog about it. you know how much you like that …” With logic like that, how could I say no? Sorry angel, you lose again …
A few days passed, and, because g was prepping us up some lovely lemon-accented sockeye salmon (a real treat!), I pulled out the d’Attimis SB, ripped off the peculiar pre-perforated foil, corkscrewed out the cork like it was my job, and splashed some into our glasses. It was time to test the Chairman again. As I swirled, a nose wafted up out of the stemware with stone fruits (peaches), citrus fruits (lemon), pineapple, and a bit of fresh-cut-grass. It was not at all what I was expecting, as Italian whites, for me, are often a bit more floral or a bit more rustic (hay … lots of hay), not necessarily tropical fruity … but I’ll take it! And as I swished, the same flavors came through on the palate as well, with a lovely mouthwatering effect and smooth viscosity. I swore it was a New Zealand sauvignon blanc … a good New Zealand SB. Maybe I opened the wrong bottle? Maybe someone was playing a joke on me? (I know it’d be the kind of joke I’d like to play on others … right, a?). I said, “hmmm” so as not to let on to my enjoyment and eagerly waited for g’s reaction. The result: “oh this is good! passionfruit! how much was it?” Game-set-match – g likee (but I’ve never had real passionfruit before, so I don’t know what exactly that tastes like, but I trust g ‘implithitly’ (that’s another movie reference/joke)).
Now, keep in mind that g and I are sauvignon blanc fanatics. We like them juicy and very zippy. We like them with minimal oak, and if they have a dose of petrol or linoleum, all the better! If you want some kind of full-bodied, fleshy, vanilla-laden Chardonnay, this wine will rub you every which way but right. But if you’re the kind that reaches for Kim Crawford as a “go to” white, then this will be right up your alley. But be careful – there is a shocking amount of acidity that feels like lightning in your mouth on the finish. Basically, if you ever needed an eye-opener of a wine to wake you up in the morning (not that I endorse AM drinking), this would be it. This producer also makes a pinot grigio and cab sauvignon blend (more on that below).
Could it be? The PLCB is now 2 for 2 in terms of wines that I’ve taken a chance on and been impressed! And, this wine seems to be in great abundance at the 20th and Market store, as it’s on the butt-end of an aisle with a big Chairman’s note placard (i.e. not on one of the shelves along an aisle with the other wines), so I look forward easy access for some time. So now I’m at 2 “cellar recommendations” that can be found in PLCB stores! Yay! (There is a third wine, a white named Silencis, but it’s a bit pricey at $18, and not as widely available).
Ah – and now time for some fast updates about other wines I’ve recently tasted between me writing the above and it going to post:
1) The first was a follow-up to the last post on the 2011 Broadside Cab – I tasted to 2011 Broadside Printer’s Alley Red Blend and added it to the end of the original Broadside post! Check it out.
2) The second follow-up was the cabernet blend made by Conte d’Attimis-Maniago, the producer on this post. There will be a special someone who will like this Italian red, but it’s not me. While some of what I don’t like about it might be “stylistic” or “terroir” or whatever, I suspect that my biggest problem is the 50% of what the producers are calling “cabernet franc carmenere” (I thought that cabernet franc is different than carmenere?) mixed in with the 50% cabernet sauvignon. And that’s not to say that I don’t like cab francs or carmeneres, but when they come from a relatively cool climate, they could lead to a pretty green-tasting wine … like this one! As I sipped this surprisingly light-bodied red, it attacked me with this bitter green vegetal flavor (imagine biting into the stem of a cluster of grapes) that I didn’t find pleasant. However, had that been removed, I really do like the nice red fruit, and light-to-medium body – it would have been a pinot-drinkers cab. Oh well – I can’t win ’em all …
in case there was doubt
t says: With the opening of Le Cheri, the Calmels’s new spot on Rittenhouse, one could imagine a scenario where their flagship Bibou might suffer. After all, Pierre can’t be in two places at once. Always up for an investigation, the adsz team was all over it like white on rice, making the state-of-emergency-all-hell-is-breaking-loose snowstorm into an opportunity to dine at a restaurant that normally is just too booked to get into. Well here are the results …
February 2012, Thursday Dinner, Party of 5. Roll the pictures:
We started the dinner off with a unique wine from Ayoub, a small production winery in Oregon. This was a Blanc-de-Noir, a white wine made from pinot noir grapes, similar to a Blanc-de-Noir champagne. Only 20 cases were made in total, so to say that it’s limited would be accurate. As you can see, it’s not a completely “white” wine, with a hint of orange in the glass. On the nose, it smelled of apple pie, and on the palate initially there was rich fruit and vanilla (almost like a Chardonnay that had undergone MLF), but then such a bright citrus zip on the finish that was quite amazing. A very different style of Blanc-de-Noir than I’ve had in the past, but we’ll see what some bottle age does for it.
Shrimp salad / “Crevette”: This was a very refreshing appetizer and highly recommended. Although there are a lot of other things on the plate, the shrimp was the highlight and came through nicely.
bone marrow: this was supposed to be an entree but we got one for the table to share as an extra appetizer. Yes, it was rich and luscious and everything you’d hope bone marrow could be. I do wish there was a little less breadcrumb so you could get a little more of that unctuous bone marrow texture, but it was nevertheless a great appetizer. And yes, a and I did do a small 2001 A Space Odyssey reenactment. g and v disapproved.
oh the escargots … still bowl of garlicky crack if there ever was such a thing.
pig’s foot. Yea – it’s still my number 1 choice. The lentils were a little more al dente than I’ve had in the past, but the trotters piggy sweetness still sang its 80’s-style power-ballad with such dramatic flare that you cannot help but be moved. (v says: but mine didn’t rock my world as it usually does! something just doesn’t seem right.) I felt like it was the lentils – they could have used a bit more pork and a bit more of that smokey/salty flavor.
a suspected that his venison special was superior (a says: My venison was prepared beautifully, the best meat I’ve had in a long time – gamey without being overpowering; succulent), and while I agree that that, too, was an extraordinarily well-executed piece of animal meat, it could have been a touch too sweet for my taste. a promptly told me to stop being an idiot.
g went for the steak, which is not surprising. She gave me half of one piece in lieu of the typical two-piece allotment of steak I routinely get. Conclusion: it’s still awesome. The secret is in that peppercorn, asparagus, red wine sauce. Similar to the pig’s foot, there may be crack in there, too. Never having had crack, I have no basis for comparison, but I know the flavor haunted me long after the waiter had cleared the plates.
Bibou’s weakness has always been dessert. The desserts aren’t flashy, which I understand, as this is supposed to be “French peasant” after all. My problem is that just because they’re simple doesn’t mean they have to be boring. This is a piece of chocolate cake with some banana and banana-rum topping. That’s it. Chocolate, banana, rum. Maybe a few berries strewn around. The cake is like a dense, slightly crumbly chocolate cake. Alas, it does not at all compare to the likes of desserts we’ve had at Serpico and Talula’s Garden. It is a sweet way to end a meal, but deep down inside, don’t you wish for a finish with a bang? (or at least a nearby Capo Giro …)
Similarly, the cheese selection and accompaniments are not that blow-your-mind, either. It strikes me as very simple. Very European. Bibou’s just like: “hey – here’s some cheese and some bread.” No candied nuts. No lavender honey. No garlic dulce-de-leche. No 6 different kinds of crisps. Just some cheese and some bread and some apple. Oh – and there’s some tomato jam as well. Don’t get me wrong, the cheeses are solid selections, and they are able to end a meal just fine … but don’t you wish there were fireworks? Maybe I’m just too American about my desserts …
So, in summary, Bibou’s food is pretty much the same as it was in the past. Sure, there are some very subtle rough edges (the lentils didn’t have as much pork strewn about, the escargots were a smidge smaller than previous), but it’s still absolutely worth going to, as the kitchen is still cranking out top-notch foods that make you feel all warm and happy inside. And had we not known that Pierre wasn’t there, maybe we wouldn’t have even noticed … well except at the end when Chef Ron comes out to say hello instead of Pierre (he’s still a very nice guy – maybe lacking the charm of Pierre’s bashful French accent, but still very nice). I think what adsz will miss the most, however, is the front of house. Our favorite server has moved on to Le Cheri (the replacements are very capable and kind, but we miss our guy’s award-winning smile), and we miss having Charlotte flit about the room, speaking French, shmoozing with guests (although Yuki’s demeanor is very warm and inviting). In sum, we’re sure they’ll do very well there. For the future, we look forward to tasting the non-steak, non-pig’s-foot, non-escargot dishes (i.e. the ones chef is obligated to continue to serve because too many people would cry if he stopped), as I’m sure we will come to find Chef Ron’s voice among the Pierre’s legacy.
All in all, it was a great dinner. And to be honest, the only real “bad” part was trudging back to South Street through Snow-pocalypse IV due to lack of cabs in the area.
the PLCB finally stocked a great California Cab
t says: I’m hard on the PLCB. But I feel like I’m justified! The PLCB is responsible for the horrible selection we see in our liquor stores. Basically, you can find a lot of swill or a lot of really expensive bottles (“I’m going to buy aged first-growth Bordeaux from a PA liquor store” … was said by no one, ever …). Sure there are some times that the state gets a good “deal” on certain wines, but I have found that if PA got a deal on something, it’s because no one else was willing to pay full price for it … which means that more often than not, it’s going to be not-that-good. And it’s not like the staff is full of wine enthusiasts who’ve tasted every bottle and can help you find that very “interesting” bottle or that “new producer” or that “weird grape”. And should you do the unthinkable and ask anything beyond, “where can I find the Merlot?”, you’re directed to someone who has a little more knowledge, but still lacks the enthusiasm I want out of a “wine dude” (or dudette). Please! Tell me a story! Who made the wine? What’s in the bottle? What’s it going to taste like? Will I like it if I also like X-Y-Z wine? Don’t just direct me to the “Chairman’s Selection”. I tell ya’ what: I hate the Chairman. There. I said it (after editing out my more colorful, 3-worded statements). Now, I realize that my needs sound a little extreme, but if people can get away with being this annoyingly inquisitive at Whole Foods, I’m allowed to be annoyingly inquisitive at wine stores. Actually, if anything, people this annoying at Whole Foods get pats on the back and nods of approval … I get vacant stares …
So here’s the situation I was recently in: a $20 bill in my hand, a desire for some good cabernet sauvignon, and no car to get me to Jersey or Delaware. Damn! Now sure, at the Fine Wine and Spirits Shop at 21st and Market, there are going to be some reasonable standby’s to spend that crisp clean Jackson on, like H3 (in the $11-14 range) and Louis Martini (in the $15-$20 range). Or there are cheater options like heading over to the Australia section for some Penfold’s Kununga Hill Shiraz-Cab blend. But, at best, these are only “ok” options, meaning I’m happy to drink them if someone else buying, but if I’m going to have the adsz crew over for some Finer-Things-Club caliber dining, I have to bring my A-game. (Or wait – maybe I should be hipster-ironic and pick up a box of Franzia and a bottle of Arbor Mist and call it a day …<insert cricket chirps here>)
Well, just when I thought the PLCB couldn’t be any dumber …
they go and do something like this …
… and totally REDEEM themselves!
But FOR REAL:
2011 Broadside “Margarita Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon
The nose on this wine is interesting in that, unlike most CA cabs <$20 (disclaimer: it’s only 1 cent less than $20, so with tax, it does exceed $20), it smells like more than just fruity sweet candy. There’s some kind of mint or menthol giving it some pizazz. There’s also some kind of subtle musky scent that reminds me of wet dirt (or maybe it’s like how it smells outside in a rural area after a fierce rainstorm). Strange … but I like it. Then on the palate is where the bright red fruit comes in and hits you in the face. And while there are a lot of cabs that can do this, this cab is not the least bit “heavy”. What do I mean by that? Well, I don’t feel overwhelmed like I’m drinking a palate-coating super-rich berry milkshake, rather, it’s more like … well … ummm … ?juice? Wow, that’s not very eloquent. I tried to get more insight by asking a what he thought:
<BEGIN transmission>
t: hey – if you have any comments re: Broadside last night, i’m going to blog about it today as a “good plcb find!”
a: is that the sinewy red?
t: sinewy?
a: yup
t: what does that mean in a wine? …<consults online dictionary> … “strong, lean, muscular?”
a: Sinewy – Usually referring to a wine with not much fruitiness, but a good balance of alcohol and acidity … although this had a little fruit up front
<END transmission>.
So what does a “good balance of alcohol and acidity mean?”. Well, in Broadside’s case, the alcohol is lower than one would expect for a typical CA cab, coming in at 13.9% (+/- a few tenths, as allowed by law – the winery claims it comes in at 13.3% which is wicked-low for a CA cab). Furthermore, the acid is more apparent than most “luscious” CA cabs – but that doesn’t mean it’ll taste “more acidic” (the predominant contributor of burning sensation in wines is the alcohol, not acid), rather, you’re left with a mouth-watering finish that tastes nice and bright. The result is that you’re ready for another sip pretty quickly and it’ll go well with food.
So … is this $20 wine the end-all be-all of cabernet? No. But am I shocked to be this impressed with something I found at a state store? You bet! It’s a $20 wine that tastes like … a $20 wine!! Imagine that! And it’s most definitely superior to a lot of $50+ cabs I’ve had (n.b. I don’t own a lot of $50 cabs, but I have had the opportunity to taste quite a few on tasting trips). I hope it”ll be a wine that tastes so good that normal, reasonable people, after first sip, will go “yea, that’s pretty good” and then scrutinize the label to answer “what is this?” At the same time, hopefully abnormal, unreasonable wine snobs, will go “yea, that’s pretty good – who is this?” I don’t know how many state stores have this wine in stock, but it might be worth searching for (for the 21st and Market store it’s straight across from the entrance, on the very bottom shelf of the “Premium Collection” – when I went back to pick up another bottle there were like 8 left!). So check it out, and if you think this wine tastes like butt and have some better suggestions, drop us a comment!
And now, I’m go finish with some wine nerdery … that no one else is interested in reading … unless you want to drop some knowledge at your next dinner party:
Paso Robles is often warmer than Napa, and therefore capable of ultra-ripe, ultra-jammy, alcoholic wines. But 2011 dealt Paso Robles a very cool growing season, which usually leads to less-ripe, less-jammy, less-alcoholic wines. Now combine this with a producer like Broadside who already specializes in lower-alcohol wines and uses little-to-no new oak (the tech sheet claims 3% new oak), and the result is a pretty atypical California cabernet. So if you like this style of wine, then let’s talk! Oh, and they also make a Merlot (which I’ve never had) and a “Red Blend” (that is also at the PLCB).
EDIT (20-Feb-2014):
So I went back for the 2011 Broadside “Red Blend” from “Printer’s Alley”. The Printer’s Alley red blend was a nice wine – a little more plush, less funk/earth/dirt, and less mouth-watering acidity than the straight-cab (?maybe due to the 25% Merlot?), and as a result came across a little more “girl-next-door”, lacking the attention-getting characteristic of the straight-cab (which is more girl-next-door-with-a-small-tattoo … not to be confused with girl-next-door-with-a-tramp-stamp). I think if I was throwing a party, I’d reach for the Printer’s Alley; but if I’m drinking alone (not that I endorse drinking alone), then I’d go for the Margarita cab for sure (which is why I now have 2 bottles in the cellar!)
olive oil chocolate mousse?
t says: I came across this bizarre recipe. Somebody try it out and tell me how it is!
http://us.riojawine.com/en/363-recipe-of-the-month.html
Recipe courtesy of James Beard Foundation
Pastry chef turned Indian take-out queen Heather Carlucci-Rodriguez demonstrated how to make this rich, dairy-free chocolate mousse at her chocolate workshop at the Beard House. The recipe was inspired by her good friend, Teresa Barrenechea, author of The Basque Table (2005) and The Cuisine of Spain: Exploring Regional Home Cooking (2005) and chef/owner of Marichu restaurant in NYC. For the most delicate flavor, choose a sweet, subtle olive oil, such as those produced in the Lake Garda region of Italy.
Ingredients:
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
3 large eggs, separated
2/3 cup confectioners’ sugar
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup brewed espresso
2 tablespoons liqueur, such as blackberry brandy
Yield: 8 servings
Method:
Melt the chocolate over a double broiler and allow it to cool to room temperature.
Beat the egg yolks and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer on high speed until light and lemon yellow in color. Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream, as you would for a mayonnaise. Once the olive oil has been incorporated, add the melted chocolate, espresso, and liqueur. Mix on low speed until combined.
In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites until they form medium peaks. Fold the whites thoroughly into the chocolate mixture and refrigerate until set, at least 3 hours.
after dinner sneeze 