Posts Tagged ‘italian’
Modo Mio: Veni Vidi Vici
t says: Yes, g and I write about Melograno … a LOT. We just had not experienced Italian fare as delicious as Melograno at a similar price point … Well, let me rephrase … Mercato is equally as delightful, but a bit further away from us, and yes, Amis, Osteria, and Vetri all have wonderful refined-meets-rustic food, however, these have higher prices when you take into account the smaller portions and BYO-lessness. Well, there was one BYO that we had heard of that promised to deliver delicious food at a reasonable price with a classic Philly BYO atmosphere: Modo Mio. a and v had wanted to go for some time as well, so we joined forces and trekked on over to NoLibs (I kind of hate that name the more I say it …).
11/2010, Friday 9pm, Party of 5. We showed up precisely at 9pm – we could not have planned it more perfectly if we tried. I had a bottle of red ready to go, having been decanted for an hour, and our dinnermates brought a few of their own as well. This was going to be fun … eventually. As soon as we got there, we were told that they were running behind and that they were trying to free up our table. I figured, “ok – maybe there’s a party that just hasn’t gotten their check yet”. But then the minutes started flying by … At fifteen minutes, we had watched the hostess seat a few couples/parties that had been waiting before us, but there were still a fare number jammed into the tiny little “holding area” (there was one door leading to the outside and one door leading to the dining room). We were a little irritated. g, on the other hand, had resorted to handing out gum as appetite suppressants – our party was hungry. I coped pretty well, as I had eaten a late lunch, and thankfully I did because no one wants to be around a hungry t. g suggested that I give them my “starving-child-from-a-poor-country-on-tv” look, but no one deserves to see that …
At the half-hour mark, the hostess came out and started handing out wine glasses to members of parties other than ours (she kind of pretended we weren’t there), apologizing for the wait – nevermind that we had waited longer than anyone else. What was funny was that she actually ran out of glasses to hand out, forcing some of those people to share – I guess the kitchen was still trying to clean up some glasses in the back?
At the forty minute mark, v confided in us, “guys – don’t say anything – I’ll handle it – I’m really good with Comcast …” Apparently v has had ample past experience in negotiating with Comcast for free channels and cheaper rates (I think she calls every 6 months or so); she felt that her negotiating skills would be able to get us some free food or cheaper rates, I suppose. Personally, at that point, I was wondering if we were actually going to eat there at all that night!
At 55 minutes, we were promised a table “in three minutes”. And sure enough – we were shown to a table with five seats at 10pm. Yikes – a one-hour wait despite having a reservation? In retrospect, I realize that we were never actually told an estimate of the amount of time it would be until we got a table – it always seemed like “a few more minutes” – even though the hostess never actually said that until the very end. Hmmmm – I wonder what would have happened if they said, “that’ll be an hour wait” up front? I guess we’ll never know, now …
As we sat down, a and v formulated “the plan”. “The plan” was that v was going to have a word with our server about our wait and whether something could be done to compensate. For the life of me, this did not sound like an idea that would produce a positive result – after all – we did wait for them even though we technically had the option of leaving … I felt that they should be giving us free stuff without us even having to ask – but of course, that only happens in fairy tales and at Sampan.
Then, a plate of bruschetta hit the table, compliments of the chef, because of our wait. a looked at v and said, “oh no – this doesn’t make up for anything.” (Actually, a might have not have said “anything”, rather, other choice words … I can’t remember … but we’ll keep it clean.) So, none of us touched the bruschetta until after v had a word with the server. Now, I have no idea what v said. She was very quiet about it, which perhaps the server and restaurant appreciated. And to be honest, it sounded kind of like the server was less-than-willing to give us anything for free – clinging to the usual excuses of “we’re really sorry about that – it’s just really hard when just one table takes too long then it throws everyone off, yada yada yada.” But somehow, v did work some magic! The server came back from the kitchen and said that the chef will send out extra courses with our meal. That sounded pretty good. The kitchen would get to use up ingredients they couldn’t save ’til the next day, and we’d get free food – excellent!
Amidst all of this negotiating, a noted that the place was VERY loud. Actually, it might have been the loudest BYO that I’ve ever been to. a, who’s not a very quiet person by nature, was using his full-on “outside voice”, and v, who normally has to rein him in for being too loud, remarked, “you know – in here, he’s actually not loud at all!”. I guess we found a place for him to really let loose. My favorite a-isms for the night include his version of speaking fluent Italian and shouting at the top of his lungs the first and last names of a politician interspersed with curse words.
How was the food? Well, we sampled a LOT of dishes – the five of us each got the “tour” deal (4 courses for $33). And then add on the “extras”. I’ll list the ones I had/remember and let the others take over at their convenience …
The grilled calf tongue dish I had was quite tasty, however, the tongue, itself, was a bit tough. I guess I imagined it would have had a similar texture to the veal tongue I had at Zahav, but grilling is different than braising, so that’s my fault. If nothing else, it was yet another cut of meat that I can now say I have had!
I had the gnocchi pasta which was very nice. The gnocchi, itself, was a solid performer – softer/more luxurious than at Gnocchi, but not quite the cloud-like consistency of Osteria’s potato gnocchi. The gorgonzola sauce was intensely rich – I couldn’t finish the dish – and this was surprising to me because they don’t give you a huge amount of pasta – but I was definitely crying uncle by the end.
g had the crab-ricotta cake. It was funny because normally people brag about how their crabcakes have “no fillers, all crab”. But not here. It was like “yea, we have crab and ricotta … got a problem with that?” Actually, it was delicious. On one hand, it was very decadently crabby – the ricotta didn’t mask any of the crab. Instead, the ricotta brought a nice flavor and texture of its own – I think this combo needs to be put together more often!
g also had the bucatini amatriciana. I sampled some and was quite impressed with the flavors – they weren’t quite as smokey-salty-prosciutto-y or as spicy as at Melograno, but there was some sort of richness with the tomato that was seductive. The pasta might have been a bit more al dente than I’m used to, but I liked it!
g and I both had the braised lamb cheek as our mains. The sauce was quite good with cherries, some other sweet-n-sour fruit, and a nice savory meaty taste. The lamb cheek itself was very good in taste, although I felt that it wasn’t the most tender piece of braised cheek I have ever had. On one hand, maybe lamb cheek just doesn’t get that tender, but I find that hard to believe. The meat was also streaked with glorious, glorious fat – but even that wasn’t quite as melt-in-your-mouth as I was hoping. Texture aside, the taste of the dish, itself, was quite good. I wish I knew all of the components that went into the braise as it was a combination that I’d like to try at home with some short ribs!
a says: I believe Lolita is the loudest/cramped byo that still produces food worth returning for – modo mio is a close second. a must also admit that v is certainly his better half and handled this situation with aplomb. A restaurant should, without prompting, rectify a mistake this large, but a doubts this would have happened without v’s thoughtful intervention.
Overall, none of the wines a provided blew him away. There was a mediocre pinot grigio (2009) and a decent Monastrell from Bleda (2008).
For starters, the capesante had a scallop cooked to perfection resting on a small salad but the Prosciutto di Parma seemed misplaced. The pasta course, gnocchi, was thick without being heavy, however, paired with a Gorgonzola-cream sauce, seemed too rich. My secondi was duck wrapped in prosciutto which is a dish I doubt could be bad, anywhere. The duck was good, not great, and I believe the proscuitto was used as “bait” – much like bacon or butter, it will be enjoyable on any dish but does it complement the main ingredient, bringing it to a higher plane. Similar to the capesante, I think the overall result was less focused.
The highlight of the evening, oddly enough, was an “extra;” their homemade lasagna topped with a fried egg. The lasagna was complex and delicious, and only made better with the yolk of the egg. Supplying us with the entire dessert menu was appreciated and a nice touch. The tiramisu stood out but after that much food, I can’t say much else.
The menu turista is definitely one of the best deals in the city, if you don’t mind a bottle-of-wine wait for your table (possibly).
t says: In retrospect, I suppose that it’s clear that Modo Mio was not a flawless restaurant. There was “the wait” and also some hiccups in the food … but for some reason, I would definitely want to try it again. Was it the company? Was it the wine? I don’t know – but the food, even with the flaws, still had these decadent strokes of genius throughout (e.g. that egg-on-the-lasagna was my favorite dish, too!). All in all, it was definitely worth the price of admission …
Melograno, Radicchio Cafe, La Locanda del Ghiottone, oh my!
v & a say: Three very different Philly restaurants that fall under the same category – small/Italian/byob. Before continuing, we must reveal our bias with a disclaimer: La Locanda is our neighborhood go-to spot which is as inviting and quirky as the food is delicious. Everyone is welcomed with a poster of the late proprietor, Giuseppe’s, Green Card, which reads “I waited three years for my green card, you can wait an hour for your food.” In any event, the staff (read: the Italian-stallion from South Philly serving you), takes pride in the menu and directs you without hesitation or forced pleasantries. This no-frills, entertaining experience, always leaves you satisfied and is well worth the trip. And, if you can’t find anything on the rustic-Italian menu that strikes your fancy, then tell them what you want and they shall deliver. To start, try the antipasto sampler served with cheese, olives, and grilled veggies. Word to the wise, don’t even think about putting cheese on fish at this devout establishment. Oh, and in response to the many less-than-glowing online reviews of this restaurant: We can see how many may think the service is coarse – personally, we appreciate anyone who enables people to enjoy delicious food, byo libations, healthy portions, and, above all, do so with friends and family – but try to take it all in stride. Also, if you only have time for lunch and desire a little of what La Locanda (only open for dinner) has to offer, try its sister restaurant, Il Cantuccio, for a taste.
Radicchio Cafe and Melograno also provide environments where groups can meet and share Italian cuisine, though we would label Melograno’s as more ambitious. Whereas La Locanda can accommodate a more boisterous crowd, these two restaurants are for more “mature” groups. In terms of food, Melograno takes the cake. a and I both ordered fish specials at Radicchio Cafe and weren’t blown away by either. a was steered away from ordering the soup du jour by the waiter – you know it misses the mark if the waiter specifically tells you not to order something. We followed his recommendations and were still left unsatisfied. Of course, we can’t make judgments off of one visit and so, we’ll have to return and let you know what transpires. What a pity.
At Melograno we had a much different experience. d took us to dinner to celebrate one of the year’s many notable events. He ordered the Pappardelle Tartufate which, let’s just say, is the dish he keeps returning for, over and over and over. We both ordered dishes that left us satisfied, to the point where we didn’t have room for dessert. As with La Locanda, the Antipasto Rustico is a great dish to share. Melograno and La Locanda do not differ in terms of quality of food and ambiance; where distinctions can be made is in the overall experience and approach to the cuisine. Melograno is a modern, comfortable, sleek byo with a menu to match, whereas La Locanda is like eating at your Italian grandmother’s house, crucifix and all.
It’s impossible to fairly rank these restaurants without knowing who we would be sharing the meal with. What we can say is that Melograno and La Locanda are at the top. With a loud, boisterous crew, we would choose La Locanda. With a more subdued group and fussier palates, Melograno.
Babbo: New York’s Vetri
t says: How dare I insinuate that a well-known NYC restaurant is a “version” of a restaurant in Philadelphia!? Babbo was first! Babbo was created by Mario Batali – who’s this “Vetri” guy? I apologize, I didn’t know what I was thinking – but I got your attention, right? I actually have no intention of trying to make the case that Babbo is New York’s Vetri … I will mention, however, that Batali and Vetri are friends, and Batali has been quoted saying that “Vetri is possibly the best Italian restaurant on the east coast.” … I’m just saying …
g was recently gifted Batali’s The Babbo Cookbook (thanks l!). It brought back memories of the two times that g and I had visited. Because they were so long ago (over 2 years ago), I’m a little fuzzy and what in particular made it so great. Was it the energetic, yet soothing atmosphere? Was it the impeccable wine service? Or was it the gigantic wine list that included actually good makers from actually good years for only moderately-increased prices? Or maybe it was the food – the way it was rustic Italian with a twist here and there? All of the above. Because I have very little specific recollection of our visits, as they were so long ago, and so much wine was consumed, I guess this really isn’t a “proper” review – but take my word for it that it was delicious overall. Interestingly, I remember that none of the pastas are horrendously expensive, so it wasn’t too much of a bankbuster (I think they rely on wines and the meats/fish to bring in the $$).
I do remember a single dish. I had it on our second visit – it was the end of February 2008. I remember it like it was yesterday. It was cold outside, and we had just squeezed in to one of the few tables of the restaurant specifically set aside for walk-ins. I wanted someting warm and rustic. Something that was meaty and heavier than just “pasta”. And there I found it: gnocchi with oxtail ragu. This was the first time that I had had oxtail outside of Chinatown, and, despite the unattractive name, it was amazing! The gnocchi were perfect fluffy pillows. The meat clung to the pasta via a very thin sauce that brought forth sweet onion, tomato, and, of course, meat. The meat, itself was as tender as can be. It was like taking Osteria’s gnocchi and combining it with Melograno’s short rib ragu (well, except using oxtail instead of short rib). As a whole, I think it still holds the title as the best Italian gnocchi/pasta dish I’ve ever had (I use “Italian” as a qualifier because Talula’s did have a dumpling dish that was equally out-of-this-world, but not traditionally Italian).
I bring all this up now because in the cookbook, there are recipes for some of the dishes we actually sampled on our visits. Among them is the oxtail ragu. It’s time to get cookin’ …
Melograno: Our Nearby “Go-To” for Italian
t says: Ah, Melograno. You’ve never given us a bad meal. You’re BYO, and you’re within walking distance, thus saving us cab fare. And your pastas … there’s just something about your pastas …
We’ve been to Melograno four times, and g and I alone have had 7 pasta dishes. The first time we went, I had a special of the day – a braised short rib pasta that was to die for – it actually was the reason why I had to find a recipe on how to cook short rib pasta at home! The third time we went there, g ordered another special of the day – a lamb ragu pasta – another genius dish (now I have to start cooking some lamb). And then Melograno sprinkles in those “weird” dishes – we once had a mushroom and pear “lasagna” as an appetizer (g says: actually, I think it was peach, not pear) – it was such a great idea and so close to perfection (the textures of the ingredients were a little mismatched – the pear [peach?] was a little lost).
But of course, we need to be fair … Melograno has had some issues. The cheese plate (which we also had the first time we went) was an atrocity – they need some cheese guidance up in there (and this is coming from a guy who knows absolutely nothing about cheese). We haven’t tried it since for fear that it hasn’t improved (but maybe it has – who knows!?) Also, they had a pasta carbonara on the menu that totally misled one of our pork-loving friends (their version used anchovies as the salty protein in lieu of pancetta) – on one hand it might have been his fault for not reading the menu – on the other hand, it could have been their fault for not printing in bold letters the lack of pig in the dish (someone’s gotta take the fall). Finally, the portion sizes are a bit small, which is definitely not helped by the fact that they serve their pastas in ridiculously large dishes, so anything seems small the moment it hits your table. Additionally, I firmly believe that they have somehow calculated exactly how much pasta it takes to fill someone up adequately and don’t give a single noodle more; I’ve never been hungry after eating there (but I’ve always had room for dessert – luckily Capo Giro is right there), but I’ve also never had leftovers (g has had leftovers once). While most are ok with not having leftovers, if you consider that other Italian BYOs are ~25% less expensive (e.g. La Viola) and give you a bit more food, you really have to ask yourself what you want out of a meal. Is the taste worth it?
We recently realized that we had not gone to Melograno in a while – with all of the new restaurants we’ve been trying, we had forgotten about the old goodies. So, what we needed was an excuse to go. Aha! People’s birthdays! Excellent excuse! We got together a party of people and looked forward to some good Italian …
2/2010, Sunday 5:30pm, Party of 7. We got together a party of 7 (there were some birthday friends among us) and headed out to Melograno at the geriatric time of 5:30pm – it’s the easiest way to book a table this large. The original reservation was for 9, but we had two last-minute cancellations – it was an opportunity to see if they could roll with the punches (although I guess a real challenge would have been reserving 7 seats and then showing up with 9 people). The hostess (actually – I think she’s one of the owners?) looked at me kind of funny for a few seconds after I told her that we needed to change the number, but after contemplating what I was saying, she said that she thought it would be fine. She left to go adjust our table (they had just pushed together a bunch of tables along a wall for us, so she just separated a two-topper) and was back in a flash to let us know that, if we wanted, we could be seated before the rest of our party arrived. We were happy to hear this, as we’re so “over” restaurants making parties wait until everyone’s shown up when it’s clear the table’s ready, and moved to colonize our own little territory of the restaurant. It’s a good thing we did – 2 of our party didn’t show up ’til 6 (but we still love them).
We ordered an antipasto plate for the table – it was fun to pick at. Overall, it was a solid antipasto with a selection of grilled vegetables (e.g. eggplant) cured meats, mozzarella, and pickled vegetables (g especially liked the celery). Personally, I think Mercato does it better (theirs is a little more “rustic” – I still remember the grilled peppers – mmmm), as does Vetri (duh), but Melograno’s wasn’t bad at all – definitely leagues ahead of La Viola.
I ordered the pasta carbonara. WHAT? Pasta carbonara? Did I not just whine and complain about this dish in the second paragraph? Yes, I did. But this time was different. While I was browsing the menu, I noticed that Melograno had swapped out the anchovies for pancetta in their pasta carbonara (too many fooled customers?). It was a sign – they were begging for a chance at redemption. I knew I had to try it – that and there was no lamb pasta of the day. When it came to my plate, it looked plain – a neat clump of off-white spaghetti against a large white bowl. My eyes were not amused. But then I ate it. It was the second best carbonara I’ve ever had (the first best was made by our pork-loving friend that I mentioned above – that’s right, a home chef still holds the title). Melograno’s pasta was perfectly cooked, there was just enough sauce to cover the noodles, and the bits of pancetta were nice little meaty surprises. It was a very rich dish, so, in retrospect, I’m happy there was only as much as there was – if there was any more, I would have eaten it and been unable to move.
k was also at our meal with us. A Melograno virgin, she maximized the number of things she’d taste by ordering two appetizers as dinner. Her first was the roasted portobello, which I sampled. It tasted quite good – a little more umph than just a mushroom, but I didn’t hear her say “holy crap”, which I’m pretty sure I’ve heard her exclaim about food in the past. For her second, right before she ordered, we had an interesting discussion:
k: What is carpaccio?
t: It’s really thinly sliced raw meat.
k: But this says pear carpaccio …
t: Oh … ummm … really thinly sliced pear? or are they going to hide meat somewhere?
It turns out that it’s thinly sliced pear, an aged balsamic, and micro-greens. k liked that dish as well, as [I feel that] she’s a huge fan of a good aged balsamic. I kind of wished I had seen that on the menu because it definitely seems like something I’d order.
d was also at our meal. After seeing him at this dinner, I can say with complete confidence that he has a food obsession, which is surprising because he normally “keeps it real” and thus seems like he’d be immune to crushes, obsessions, and fetishes. I figured he would “like” a lot of things, and maybe even “love” some things – but no – these terms cannot even begin to describe the affection he has for Melograno’s pappardelle tartufe. This pasta dish seems simple on the menu. It has mushrooms (shiitake, button, and portobello), truffle oil, cheese, and walnuts. See? Simple. But, you know what – if there was a woman who could make this dish like Melograno (or maybe even only half as good), I’d bet he’d make her his wife … like, tomorrow. But you better act quickly, ladies – I hear he’s going to start trying to make it, himself …
g says: I can’t remember the name of my dish, but it was a spaghetti-like pasta with some olive oil, grated cheese, and fresh cracked black pepper. That’s all. And it was AMAZING! Sometimes I need something simple to satisfy my cravings for homemade italian – it resets my palate, bringing it back to a baseline standard for greatness.
Also, all that jazz about t being so picky-picky — you can take that with a grain of kosher salt because this place is certainly one of our favorites. It has delicious food, pleasant atmosphere, and plenty of space to breathe (not like many other tiny Philly BYOs which can cause claustrophobia). And their bathrooms are pretty darn nice, I must say. Bravo to them!
t says: In summary, Melograno did a fine job. Everyone seemed satisfied with how everything tasted – there really weren’t any complaints. I’m happy that pig is back in the carbonara and that they’re still experimenting with interesting appetizers (I guess they have a thing for pears?). I do wish that they would have a dish featuring their namesake, the pomegranate. Yes, they do have some in one of their salads (and I had a few seeds in my water – but no one else did – weird!), but I’m hoping that one day they have some sort of melograno appetizer that every first-time visitor just has to get. We had good friends and good food (and good service – I didn’t really notice them, so I assume they were good) – we had a great time. Nevertheless, we didn’t stick around for dessert – Capo Giro is less than half-a-block away.
Osteria: More Than Pizza
t says: We loved our visit to Vetri – everything was superb, from the moment we walked in to the moment we walked out. That said, we wished for a similar quality of food, but for less expensive dishes, like pastas and pizzas, as g and I are not yet bawlers. Then we heard of Osteria, a second eatery by Vetri that promised just that: delicious pasta and pizzas. So, when an out-of-town friend came to visit, we took her to Osteria (actually, she treated us, which was very kind of her).
1/2010, Tuesday Dinner, Party of 3. Despite an 8:30pm reservation, we had to wait ~20 minutes. Normally waits don’t bother me, but the place just didn’t really seem that “packed” (and open tables were in plain view), so I just didn’t know the cause for the wait. Fortunately there were seats at the bar so took the opportunity to relax and get reacquainted. As we made chit-chat and ordered some of their mixed drinks (I had an espresso martini – it was ok), we looked around and took in the space … there was a lot of it! I guess I would have never guessed that a place with rustic foods could occupy such a large venue – both by square footage and by height – then again, it’s a little out-of-the-way, so there’s probably a location-space trade-off.
We were seated at the table, and, after perusing a menu of very appetizing-sounding dishes, we opted for … surprise … some pizzas and pasta. We placed our order with our slightly awkward server and waited with excitement, enjoying the bread and oil they had provided. The octopus pizza and the margherita pizza (gotta try the classic) were both delicious with perfectly-thin thin crusts. The octopus was still tender, and the margherita, despite being so basic, sung tomato and basil. Our friend’s side of kale was a nice complement to the pizzas. I, on the other hand, had the potato gnocchi in a mushroom sauce with piave vecchio. I was flabbergasted by the texture – it was so soft and airy, but not mushy – perhaps a little more dense than the gnocchi at vetri, but the lightest potato gnocchi I have ever had (I got the spinach gnocchi with the brown butter at vetri). And the sauce was perfect – mushroom flavor without overpowering the other herbs and cheese. I found myself trying desperately to slow down sending the gnocchi to my mouth – they were so good. I will confess, however, that I wished there were more on the plate for $16 …
Desserts on the other hand were hit-and-miss. We ordered the chestnut crepes, but found that there was just too much honey for the chestnut flavor to handle. The polenta budino with hazlenuts was spot-on; it was a new dessert to me, and one I hope to try out at other places, too (if anyone else serves it).
In my opinion, the pizza was very good – I look forward to trying out the other combinations on the menu. However, the possibility that the other pastas on the menu could be at least as half as good alone warrants a second visit. Now if only they were BYO …
Romano Family Ravioli
t says: Sometimes, there exists a dish that you can eat continuously, no matter how satiated you may feel. Your mouth takes over your brain (much to the chagrin of your stomach), and your only thought is “must … keep … eating”. There are only a few dishes that can do this to me – one of them is g’s grandfather’s ravioli.
Affectionately referred to as “pop-pop” (among other choice words, right Frank?), g’s grandfather possesses a recipe for ravioli stemming from his childhood, back when his family actually sold ravioli. Trust me, selling ravioli in the area where we grew up was probably not an easy task, given that every Italian family (and there’s a lot of them) likely had their own recipe. But, while I haven’t sampled every Jersey family’s ravioli, g’s grandfather’s is the best I have encountered.
Looks plain, but you have no idea ...
So how do you make these fabled ravioli? Well, the easiest way is to make it with him. g and I have done this, acting as his helpers. I noted that no single action is particularly “hard” or “difficult” or “impossible” – but doing it “just right” requires a certain finesse that apparently only comes with years of practice, a commitment to perfectionism, and a “critical” eye to recognize when something’s working well or needs to be tweaked. It requires a ravioli “marker” (think rolling pin with divots to shape the ravioli), a piece of equipment that no Williams Sonoma or Kitchen Kapers carries. Finally, the ingredients are very specific – there is a very particular way in which the ground veal must be sourced (so I’ve been told). The flour: it absolutely must be Pillsbury brand all-purpose flour.
Unfortunately, if I told you anything more, I’d certainly have to kill you …
after dinner sneeze 