another reason to be suspicious of wine “perfection”
t says: Ok – so from the last post, you know that I sought out some wine from the PLCB based on a pretty strongly-worded review. Well, this past Friday, I put that wine to the test:
What I didn’t mention previously about my purchase is that the bottle is a pretty silly shape. It’s short and stout. It won’t fit in any wine cellar/refrigerator that I’ve seen, including the one that I own. And it’s not particularly pretty when lying down next to other bottles. Actually, it’s not pretty in any orientation. All in all, pretty silly if you ask me – but what do I know?
So I got to decanting the wine for a half hour or so and eventually poured it into the glass. I reviewed The Wine School’s note:
“Luxurious, like a velvet cushion of dark sweet fruit. The only fault is its perfection –round, sexy, slick perfection– which takes away some of the pleasure of drinking a Umbrian wine.”
I braced for “perfection”.
I didn’t find it …
2009 Falesco Tellus (Umbria, Italy, $13.99 at PLCB). Sweet-smelling dark fruits on the nose, like blackberries. On the palate, there’s some initial pleasant fruit but a surprising lack of the spice or pepper that I normally think of when I think “shiraz” (I guess I’m used to Australian Shirazes). There’s a medium body. The finish is kind of short – shorter than I’d expect from a shiraz. However, it’s also silky-smooth, with only trace tannic bite and only a tidbit of alcoholic heat. It’s a dry wine, but it goes down really easily. As far as flavors are concerned, it’s a little one-dimensional. a’s review was similar to mine: “A ‘berry-e’ nose, good fruit up front, not much on the back. Certainly NOT perfection, unless ‘perfect’ means ‘enjoyable’.”
In my mind, the Tellus lost in a head-to-head against a Cali Cab (PLCB Product Code: 000514628) that I had also pulled out that night – one that I had purchased for $10 in NJ. a disagreed, though, feeling that the Tellus was more interesting of a wine with a fuller, more inviting body. I felt the opposite. Knowing that a can handle some criticism, I told him he was “wrong”. He informed me I was misinformed and requested that I re-taste the Tellus to ensure we were tasting the same wine. I did. Nope – it was the same Tellus, so I wasn’t budging. I suspect it’s because he has higher expectations from a California Cabernet Sauvignon than an Italian Shiraz. Despite not agreeing after a few more seconds of debate, it didn’t come to fisticuffs, as we agreed that no matter which way we sliced it, this wine is definitely not “perfect” in any aspect: bottle shape, nose, flavor, finish, etc.
In summary: It’s smooth and pleasant and it won’t disappoint anyone at a party … well … unless they’re expecting “perfection”.
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