Archive for the ‘in Philadelphia’ Category
James Delivers Good for the Price of Great
t says: We’ve gone to James twice, courtesy of two groupons – and a and v went once, too! So here’s the lowdown of the restaurant that somehow went from top 10 to being left out of the top 50 according to Philly mag. But of course, let us tantalize you with a poorly-shot iPhone photo … and you can guess if I liked it or not …
t’s Props: The food was good overall – nothing made us regret having tastebuds – so we were happy about that. Our favorites, which we’d reorder again were both pasta dishes. The first was the pappardelle with duck ragu with orange and chocolate – it was so good that we ordered it both times we went! And the risotto alla kristina (risotto made with prosecco and barely-warmed-through oysters) was also delicious! Both of these had nicely cooked pasta and beautifully harmonious flavors (seriously, that risotto dish with the oysters was surprisingly oyster-y … in a fresh-tasting, good way). I also enjoyed the venison dish (g doesn’t do venison) which, too, was impeccably cooked and worked so well with the bitter chocolate – I only wish they gave me more meat because it was rather tiny (so a normal-sized person might have found it microscopic). As for atmosphere – it’s a nice and large space – quite a departure for a South-of-South eatery. The chairs were plush (g seemed a little obsessed over how comfortable the chairs were) and there was substantial spacing between tables (although I felt like g and I were SO far apart because the table was so big!). This place is great for claustrophobics who are tired of the cramped BYO scene. The service was also top-notch – some of the best we’ve seen in the city.
t’s Slops: Venus’s jewel case (a spinach fettucine with bacon in a puffed pastry shell) was a good idea, but kind of a failure – it ended up being a mushy spinach fettucini in a congealed creamy sauce (the bacon was only noticeable if you happened to get a piece). g’s lobster dish was rather unremarkable … which was remarkable because it had lobster in it! The bacon budino dessert (pictured above) was good in concept (bacon brittle, chocolate budino, paprika ice cream, chile jam), but the balance of flavors was off – please turn down the paprika and turn up the bacon (stick it in the ice cream!). Also, in my opinion, the chocolate budino was not a budino (unless I am mistaken about what a budino is, but google suggests I am not). Had the budino been as awesome as I imagined, the title of this post would have been “James’s Barbuzzo Budino Killer”.
t’s Verdict: I’m sure there will be times when I think back and fondly remember those two pasta dishes. But without a strong supporting cast of other dishes, I’m afraid that walking to Melograno or Mercato or Barbuzzo or Amis for pasta is just far easier than cabbing to James. Furthermore, tack on the price of alcohol and the lack of more groupons, and now I’m pretty sure that the deliciosity-price quotient (DPQ) is just too low for a return visit, landing it in the same category as Matyson (good-tasting Contemporary American, but just not enough food!).
a says: We agree with almost everything said by t and our experience was much the same (n.b. Thank you Groupon). We were excited to hit James due to its past accolades and positive reviews online. We knew it was pricey for South Philly and not-byo but that’s no reason not to show some love.
a’s Hollas: We were seated immediately in a space much more open than any CC byo which is appreciated. Our server was polite, attentive, and happy to make recommendations when asked. The IPA and wines by the glass were decent. We split our first course, James’ rif on choucroute garnie, which was ambitious and delicious. My 2nd course, pappardelle wih duck ragu, was full of flavor and a high-point of the meal. My entrée course was a tender and juicy veal loin, cooked to perfection and appropriately sized. We went with the apple pie for dessert which was intricately plated but tough to properly eat.
a’s Boos: The music seemed a tad too loud for the ambiance and there was too much time between courses considering the restaurant was at 75% capacity. I found the wine list limited, lacking many deals or bottles in my “$35-$65 sweet spot” for this level of restaurant. The choucroute was was not substantial, even for an appetizer and v thought her risotto alla Kristina (risotto with oysters) was good, not great. (v said, “Too strong a sea flavor.”) v’s fish entrée was again too small and nothing to write home about.
a’s Verdict: I’d be happy to return to James to give it another shot, if someone else wants to pay or we’re in need of a respite from the cramped byos of CC. We also noted the lovely private table for large groups which sits in a beautiful room away from the main dining room.
Han Dynasty’s Got Some Balls
t says: I’m sorry for the crass, unsophisticated humor, but I just had to go there. I mean, you should have seen the size of their meatballs! Wait – what meatballs? Ok … let’s rewind …
g planned a dessert gathering of very diverse people for an evening celebration, figuring that a few would be able to come for dinner beforehand. A few turned into a party of 13 or so. Yikes. What restaurant would do a party of 13 on a Saturday night? Well … let’s just say that are a lot of restaurants that would not do a party of 13 on a Saturday night … looking at you Melograno, GTC, Mercato, etc. (don’t worry – we still love you, even if you’ve hurt us so *sheds a single tear*). Then a friend of ours sent out an email invite to celebrate Chinese New Year (the following weekend) at Han Dynasty … and then we got to thinking … if our guest list and his guest list didn’t overlap, then maybe it wouldn’t be such a bad thing if maybe we borrowed his idea, right? … rriigghhtt?
Well, right or wrong, we did (g and I had been wanting to go for a long time and couldn’t make it to the Chinese New Year celebration, so we figured we owed it to ourselves to go … “for the sake of the blog!”).
1/2011, Saturday Dinner, Party of 13. Han Dynasty does things in a very cool way for large parties. There’s no lame, super-limited menu here. Instead, you tell them the number of people, the price that you want to pay per head, your dietary restrictions, and then let them do the rest. It was awesome. We went in at $20 per person and were absolutely stuffed!
As soon as we were ready, there an unending flurry of food hit the table. We tried to hear the descriptions of when they hit the table, but failed miserably (it’s pretty loud in there!). As a result, there’s no way I could try to describe the dishes for you here. There was pork (several kinds) and fish and noodles and duck and [some] veggies. I suspect that if we kept on eating, they would have kept on bringing. And they were all quite tasty! I didn’t have a single thing that I wouldn’t try again – so they definitely know how to please my palate.
But there was one that stood out. The meatballs …
They brought out this plate of humungous meatballs that were stacked on top of each other. They stared down the other plates surrounding them. And the weird thing was that they had an eerie Jello-esque jiggle to them (I suspect a large proportion of the mix is made of tofu). At this point, our party of 13 had had a reasonable amount of wine (Han is BYO … another super-awesome feature when doing something with a large party), so the question was no longer whether anyone was going to make a comment, rather, who was going to make a comment – leave it to one of g’s NYC girls to step up and own it. But you know what … peculiar jiggle aside … they, too, were actually pretty tasty! As a matter of fact, it was the only dish I asked to be wrapped up to be taken home (I suspect their appearance may have dissuaded people from trying them, so we had leftovers). But alas! I left it at the restaurant! Darn!
As far as best dish? You know – I don’t know which one tasted the best. There was one with duck I kept going back for, and I heard raves about a pork belly one. I think g was very fond of the noodle dishes (she’s a noodle fan from way back in the day). I guess we’ll just have to go back and take copious notes next time …
Han Dynasty drawbacks: Their level of spice is definitely on the higher end. Nothing was intolerable (I kind of liked it), but for the lightweights in our party, we should have requested super-mild or something (we asked for it mild and one of the dishes still had me reaching for water). Those comfortable with Asian spice will feel at home here; if you want to sweat while you eat (a la my grandfather), I’m sure that can be arranged. The second downer was that the table was right next to a pole which made fitting 13 people a little hard. Go for 12 – it’d be a bit more comfortable.
Summary: If we had another party of people to take out, I just don’t think you can beat the combo of price, BYO, taste, and casual atmosphere of Han Dynasty. Oh, and it’s tasty enough so that even real Chinese won’t care if it’s “authentic” or not.
I got scooped at Tyson Bee’s
t says: Darnit!! Foobooz totally scooped me with their live blog at Tyson Bee’s!! I was actually there AT THE SAME TIME! But I don’t know what they look like, so I don’t know if they’re in my picture; I scrutinized theirs, and I’m not in it.
Well, at least I can say that I’ve been there twice in the past week, and in general, the food is pretty good! I’ve sampled the steamed pork bun, which features pork belly and loin, and have concluded that it’s my favorite. It has salty and sweet and that doughy bun – I can’t resist it. I also had the korean short rib and kimchi burrito, which was also very good (beef had a great texture and nice spice) – but a bit too much rice (it’s already in a tortilla – there doesn’t need to be that much rice!). Finally, I also did the pork bahn mi which, while not quite Sampan-delicious, is still pretty good (they gotta put pork belly in it – then it’d be a competitor). Overall, I think the flavors are not as deep as the buns you’d get at Chifa or the bahn mi from Sampan, but for a quick bite from a food-truck, I think most foodies will be satisfied. The prices are quite reasonable, but I will agree with foobooz peeps and say that it is quite a messy lunch!
The one drawback – I am peculiarly full after eating there. I don’t know if it’s the excessive amount of pork or what, but after eating there for lunch, I’m nearly uncomfortably full for like 7 hours – I wonder if I’m just eating too much? Regardless, this apparently was not enough to dissuade me because I did go back after the first time and will probably go back again, too! Good job food truck! It’s a wonderful addition to the HUP foodtruck neighborhood.
k and cm Go to Vetri
k says: This is a long overdue discussion of our venture to one of the best restaurants in the city. Or, better spoken by the people at Bon Appetit, it is “ probably the best Italian restaurant in America.” (cm note: or as k put it, “the most important meal of our lives.”) We’re talking about Vetri. Yup, and we got to go. Ballers. So this is usually a bit out of our price range, but we had help from t and g in the form of a gift certificate for our wedding gift. It was a wonderful night. We waited almost a year to go, waiting for the right time when we were both definitely in need of a night out, and actually free enough to have a night out. We were also lucky to get in just after the airing of Iron Chef America with Vetri as the challenger, as I’m sure they booked up quickly after his strong showing. The evening started with the presentation of the menu. It resembled a price fixe menu but instead of you choosing one from each category, the chef chooses for you (and you get more than one from each category anyways.) They ask if you have any particular requests, and beyond that you are to leave it to the chef. Now, normally, I don’t like giving up any element of control, particularly in a very expensive meal. But if we hadn’t, then we never would have experienced Israeli couscous for dessert!
The atmosphere was really cozy – the living room of an old Philadelphia row house turned into a gourmet restaurant. We spotted the shiny espresso maker, which he famously made room for by removing one of the tables. We took a corner seat, perfect for people watching. We were the youngest people in the room, and definitely the most excited to be there. We were surrounded by older couples that seemed bored by the concept of a delicious dinner, and frankly bored by each other. One couple just played with their phones the whole night! There was also a young woman dining by herself in a short black dress. We took bets on whether she was a food critic or just stood up on a date. Twice we saw Mr. Vetri himself wearing his chef outfit. I stifled my desire to yell something out to him, although I felt a bit like an adoring teenaged fan. We did get a chance to talk to Jeff, the wine guy. He was really friendly and very knowledgeable about wine and food pairings. I liked his obvious pride in his work, yet his ability to speak about his specialty without making you feel dumb or beneath him.
The dinner began with an array of amuse bouches. My favorite was a solitary butternut squash gnocchi with a crispy sage leaf, served on a golden spoon. The gnocchi was so rich and smooth, perfectly balanced by the saltiness of the cheese and the crispy, herby leaf.
cm felt the foie gras was delicious but could only eat his own and not mine also, as it was too similar to butter to eat much of. The golden sweet onion crepe was incredible, with onions that had been cooked for hours and so much intense flavor. Other amuse bouches included a bluefin tuna tartare and a veal carpaccio, both decadently rich.
Perhaps my favorite part of the entire meal was the spinach gnocchi. So fluffy, like green pillows bursting with spinach and cheese flavor. The biggest mistake of the night was not eating my last spinach gnocchi. I was afraid I’d be too full for the rest of the dishes to follow. But I awoke the next morning wishing for just one more spinach gnocchi. A major error!
Next we were served two different pastas. One was a saffron pasta stuffed with braised squab and hand shaped into tortellini then served with a savory cocoa sauce. This was cm’s favorite from the whole night. I loved the stuffed pappardelle. It was long strips of tender home made pasta stuffed with cheese and matched with caramelized onions and topped with shaved foie gras. I had never eaten foie gras before, and I feel like I can still claim that. This was literally shavings from a big block, much as like some sprinkled parmesan cheese, and once it melted in I couldn’t taste it at all. The flavors in this pasta were very similar to the sweet onion crepe. Frankly, I didn’t care because they were both so freakin’ delicious I liked having it in two forms during the meal. In both pasta dishes the texture of the pasta was absolutely perfect, and cm wished he could have a whole bowl of it.
For the meat, we were served poached cod with a side of mushrooms. This was cm’s other favorite. The fish was light and buttery and kind of understated flavors. I agreed but thought it was over salted. Next we were served these little shot glasses of Concord grape sorbet. The texture was so smooth and creamy, not the usual icy feel you expect. As cm put it, it was more grapey than grapes. It was seriously grapey, and the perfect palate cleanser before dessert. Then came the craziest most creative dessert we’ve ever eaten. Israeli couscous, nuts, raisins in a light vanilla sauce served with ginger ice cream. As I mentioned, I never would have ordered this myself, but I was so glad we tried it! The Israeli couscous is plumper than the conventional one, with a great nutty flavor and feels almost like eating the pearls in bubble tea. The second dessert was a pistachio flan with a rich chocolate sauce and molten pistachio stuff flowing from the middle. This was followed by a plate of bite-size desserts. One was a deliciously light meringue with a vanilla coconut flavor. There was also a miniature chocolate mousse layer cake that was very tasty.
In all, we were stuffed to the brim with fantastic foods. Some were unique combinations of flavors we never would have dreamed of, while others were classic foods just executed perfectly. Thanks to t and g for making this culinary wonderland possible! Vetri sent us home with a signed copy of the menu and 2 beautiful blueberry muffins for the next morning’s breakfast. Such a nice touch to have a bit of the night’s dining experience left over for breakfast. Doesn’t make up for not eating that last spinach gnocchi though. How could I!
Nous aimons Bibou …
t says: Ok, so it’s been about a decade since I’ve had French classes – so the title might not actually say “We love Bibou.” But if it does – hooray! Because we’re about to give you an update about the joint:
IT …
STILL …
ROCKS!
g’s mom got us a gift certificate for Christmas, so we wasted no time in booking a reservation. We signed up to go for the the Sunday dinner fixed price dealio and cabbed our way down to the restaurant. Forget the rest of the setup – let’s dive into the food …
1/2011, Sun 8pm, Party of 2. First course was a delicious sunchoke ?cauliflower? soup. It was a nice start to a winter meal. Its was warm and rich, but the flavors were light enough to make us want more. But I’m glad they didn’t give us more – I wanted to pace myself. I knew what was next …
The escargots. These escargots are no mere snails. They are an unstoppable company of elite gastropods whose sole mission is to make your mouth happy. I get them every time, and every time, they are the perfect appetizer. Perfect texture, perfect flavor (but you have to like garlic – it’s a major component), perfect size, and the perfect sauce that g and I just have to sop up every bit of because to let the dish go back to the kitchen in any condition but completely clean is an absolute, unforgivable travesty … I need to take a break while I clean up the puddle of saliva that has accumulated on my shirt as a result of merely thinking of the escargots. Take over, g!
g says: I tried a special of the evening — wild boar chop with red quinoa — and was simply blown away. For being “wild” boar, Pierre certainly tamed it, as my dish was not the least bit gamey, and it was rather light and tender. I had always thought French food required a certain level of heaviness, but this meal was anything but. In fact, the bottle of Chablis that we brought took me through just about my entire meal, which was a pleasant surprise (my other courses included arctic char tartare, a cheese plate, and honey/chocolate ice cream). All fabulous, and a nice reminder of why we return here at least once or twice a year for special occasions.
t says: Ok, the puddle has been mopped up. For now. I say “for now” because I will next describe for you the fried pig’s feet stuffed with foie that I had as my main course. Holy bejesus – it was like a red-headed step-child of a stupendous pork belly (the fat), pork shoulder (the meat), and fried chicken (the skin). But this was a good red-headed step-child – perhaps it was more like “a cross between Fergie and Jesus” (Step Brothers, anyone?). The moist tender meat sung a sweet/salty pork, backed by luscious fat and a delicately crisped skin. I’m not sure the foie was completely appreciated in this dish – or maybe that’s why it was so silky on the tongue? The french lentils underneath were good, too. Personally, I normally feel like lentils are a “filler” that lacks much flavor on its own, but here they are executed well enough where I actually took a few spoonfuls unaccompanied by pieces of the pig feet superstar – quite tasty! I remembered how a friend of ours claimed that Bibou does the best pig’s feet he’s ever had (he’s Chinese and has consumed a lot of pig’s feet). While I’ve never had pig’s feet prior to this, I would not be surprised if they are indeed the best ever and would be quite content to simply never eat another foot of pig if it meant that I’d avoid future disappointment.
What else was great? Well, first off, we love it with Monsieur Calmels comes out and greets us. g totally shmoozed him up with how great her dish was (she didn’t lie or stretch the truth – but as you can tell – the truth is flattering enough). He was very nice and humble and told us a bit about how it was prepared; he’s comes across as a very nice guy and a class act, complete with a soothing French accent (not the kind that’s pompous like on cartoons).
We also love it when Charlotte “gets real”. She sat down at the table next to ours and chatted in French with those guests. That’s right – we eavesdropped the entire time. What’d they talk about? I have no idea – I don’t speak French (high school was a long time ago – l, we really needed you!!!). However, there were some definite phrases that I understood, because they did have to translate for one of the guests at the table who spoke no French. So what were they talking about? Well, I can’t give you details (because it might be inaccurate and I don’t want to start any rumors), but what I think we got was an insider’s scoop into some thoughts about the French-ness of French restaurants in Philly, the similarity of Biba and Bibou, the style of Stephen Starr, the accuracy of Philly Mag’s Top 50 list, the accuracy of Blackfish’s number 1 position standing in the Philly mag Top 50 list, and more! Even if it was just some late-night gossip, it was still a ton of fun.
Were there any drawbacks? Yes, there was one. One that nearly crushed g’s heart. When they took our dessert order, they told us they didn’t have any banana tartine left, which g was gunning for since she first saw the list when we sat down. We decided to go for the ice cream and the creme brulee instead (which were both still very good). But alas – we found out that we were lied to. The table of French-speaking people who arrived after us and were sitting with Charlotte were given an order – and they had ordered their dessert (and were seated) way after us!! We definitely could not mistake what our ears heard as their desserts hit the table: “Banana Tartine” (I’m saying it with a thick/fake/ridiculous French accent). Yes – I’m sure they were friends of the owners or something, and g and I admitted that we’d do the same – but I guess I’d do it just a little more discreetly. I think we weren’t disappointed that they participated in such a practice, rather, we were envious that we were not [yet] buddy-buddy enough to receive the forbidden fruits of the “we’re all out” excuse. Maybe next time. After all – we have run into them at Cochon eating brunch before. And as we have come to find when we told Charlotte where we’d like a cab to take us, that we and she were almost neighbors (we’re in the same neighborhood!). Awesome. I think we’ll have to keep an eye out for them … Maybe we’ll just carpool next time (why the hell is it so hard to get a cab to come out to South Philly?). If nothing else, in our neighborly discourse, it’d also be interesting to hear her thoughts about restaurants more local to us … like Meme …










