Archive for the ‘in Philadelphia’ Category
FedNuts 2.0 … just as good, now with improved proximity!
t says: The new FedNuts is open …
The new digs are a bit larger/cleaner/sleeker than the original. And the proximity … of course … is much easier to get to than 2nd and Federal. And the donuts are just as delicious (actually – there’s a “Strawberry and Fennel” hot-and-fresh donut that is RI-DI-CU-LOUS). Thank you Solomonov. This almost makes up for you increasing the price of Zahav’s tasting menu to >$40 … almost …
Battle Sushi: Sagami vs. Fat Salmon
t says: I love the classic battle between old and new. Obi-wan vs. Vader. Vader vs. Luke. Ents vs. Orcs/goblins. It’s so much fun! Which is why when g and I happened to go on a sushi-splurge one weekend, eating at two fancier-than-normal sushi joints on a whim, I couldn’t help but think about playing up the “Old vs. New” idea …
Sagami September 2012, Friday Dinner, Party of 2. Sagami is a very old sushi joint. How old? I have no idea – I’m far too lazy to google it. I can tell you, however, that sr and ha went there on their 2nd date in 1979. So yea – Sagami’s pretty old. BUT, I can also tell you that in 2012, they’re still packed on a Friday night – we only got in because we had a reservation. So clearly, if we had to use “institution” to describe a restaurant, we’d totally use it here …
Now even though Sagami’s pretty old, don’t think that they’ve actually made the place look nice or anything – it’s on the bottom floor (more like a basement) of a house in Collingswood. The sign is small. The parking is limited. The ceilings are low. The lights are low. The seats are few. This is not a place with a “fine dining” experience – this is “we-have-sushi-if-you-want-it-come-on-in-but-if-you-want-anything-else-you’ll-be-sad”. For example, as we sat, I wondered if there was any chance that the table I was sitting at could have been from 1979.
g and I weren’t expecting something super-fancy, but we were shocked that ha would have continued to see sr after a date here – not because of the food or service or anything – just because ha seems like she’s a “fancy” kinda girl. Of course, Sagami was probably pretty hip/happening back then, so maybe it was all about “the cool” (ha likes to be “cool”, too).
So let’s talk food …
The lights were so low that we had to use the flash. Of course, this drew unnecessary attention to us, so g got embarassed. I proceeded to take more pictures, feeling that if the first one didn’t look good, then clearly by repeating the identical set of steps without changing any positioning, it’d get better. It didn’t. Blast. g’s chirashi was actually quite good. She didn’t like the egg (even after I told her that in “Jiro Dreams of Sushi”, the making of the egg is a very advanced skill in the art of sushi), but everything else she felt was quite good. A very fresh-tasting/smelling fish, nicely seasoned rice. And that’s it.
I felt the same way with my dish – it was all very solid sushi, with a freshness that I don’t know I’ve had in Philly until spending some big bucks at Zama or Morimoto. Maybe it’s all the turnover they have? But it wasn’t just that – even the rice:fish ratio in the rolls/nigiri was well-done.
We left Sagami quite impressed with their fish. Sure it’s tiny and dark and kinda-weird-that-you’re-eating-in-a-basement, but who cares if the food is good? I’m surprised sr and ha haven’t come back for some kind of anniversary!
Oh … and did we mention … it’s BYO. (It’s kinda moot because you have to drive there, but it’s still a nice bonus!)
Fat Salmon September 2012, Monday Dinner, Party of 3. So g, bw, and I chose to go to Fat Salmon after hearing about its accolade of “Best of Philly Sushi”. We’d see about that …
We started with “tuna dumplings”, not realizing that they were not quite “dumplings”. It was more like an amuse bouche, but too big for a single bite (g says: so I guess that’s not an amuse bouche …) back to t: Touche. The flavors were a fun mix of spicy tuna (I imagine it’s togarashi aoili and tuna) and all the flavors you’d associate with a normal dumpling and a twist of ?jalapeno?. That said, I kind of wished we had a normal dumpling. Call me old-fashioned, but if something’s not a dumpling, then one should refrain from calling it a “dumpling”.
This time I went with the chirashi and g went with the nigiri and rolls. Fat Salmon surely wins points for presentation – the dishes looked beautiful. The fish looked far more attractive than they did at Sagami – the cuts were more precise and the color was more vivid (or maybe it was because we had more light?). I buckled up and got ready for a ride … but in the end, I couldn’t quite give it the thumbs-up over Sagami – I couldn’t quite figure out why. But then g hit in on the head: Sagami had a little edge in terms of the taste of the fish. It’s not that Fat Salmon’s tasted bad – it wasn’t at all bad! But there was something about Sagami’s fish that tasted a little more vivid – not “fishy”, but the salmon tasted more salmon-y, and the hamachi was more hamachi-y. I’m not sure if it had something to do with the way the fish was stored or what day of the week we went on (Friday for Sagami vs. Monday for Fat Salmon), it fell just a little short of the Collingswood Hero. bw appeared content with his sushi, agreeing that while not the best he’s ever had, it was respectable and a step up from local sushi joints (e.g. Tsuki Sushi).
So I guess Sagami’s the winner. They must have figured out “good fish + good price = success” and have stuck with it ever since. I guess the next time we visit d, we’ll have to drop on by Sagami!
Magpie me in the face anytime
t says: For my last day of my staycation, I needed to do something “new”. g was working so it’s not like I’m going to go to someplace super-uber-awesome without her, but I did want someplace that had potential for awesomeness that she wouldn’t mind missing out on. In short, I needed to find a new place for dessert. Scanning through old foobooz posts, I was reminded that Magpie opened. Hmmmm. Pies. Seems like something that g wouldn’t mind missing out on. And they had some savory pies, meaning I could go for lunch and dessert. And so off I went.
September 2012, Friday Lunch, Party of Me. I have to confess that I was afraid of what I’d find at Magpie. It’s a concept-y place on South street … meaning that it could be small and cute and lovely … or it could be a hipster haven. (Actually, there are various other things it could have been, but I was most worried about a hipster haven.) To my surprise, it was actually very nice and neat and clean and cute in there. There was no irony anywhere. Amaze! (That was meant to be ironic.) And, as with all small, cute places, there needed to be the obligatory chalkboard menu:
I believe that there was a chocolate peanut butter custard pie that was absent, which made me sad, as that was definitely one that I was looking forward to. But it’s ok, there were several other flavors to be had …
So my first slice of pie was a savory pie … you know … because I needed lunch. I have to confess that I was not particularly blown away with the ideas behind any of the listed flavors – but maybe it was because I couldn’t really conceptualize their pie counterparts. So I went with what I felt was going to be “an easy one”: croque monsieur. As you can see from above, this was far cooler than some kinda simple “French grilled ham and cheese”. First off, I half-expected the pie to come out kind of quiche-like, which for me, would have been awful (now why it is I would have ordered something that I half-expected expected to be awful, I don’t know). My problem with quiche: most quiches are often way too “eggy”, with not enough “stuff”. Fortunately, this was NO quiche. This was more similar to a super-roasted bread pudding (“super” because unlike normal bread pudding, there’s a nice dense crusting on top). So yes, there’s bread that had been soaked in some kind of cheesy mixture before the cooking process – maybe it involved eggs, maybe not. The point is that the end result is more bread-like than egg-like/custard. Hide in there a thin layer of ham, make sure it has that dense crust I mentioned on top, shove it all in a pie, and you get the result pictured above. Sounds simple, right? Sure. But it all came together wonderfully – at first bite, everything clicked: this was everything that a hot pocket wishes it was (But it was also everything a hot pocket isn’t). The ham and accompanying flavors were light and danced across the palate. There were little flirty tastes of ?mustard? and herbs. There wasn’t an molten, tongue-searing liquidy cheese leaking anywhere. I didn’t feel gross when I was done. And, to be honest, it was even easier to eat in one hand than a Hot Pocket (seriously, I just picked it up with one hand and began chomping it like I would a piece of thick-crust pizza). It was simple, but quite lovely. Of course, keep in mind that I’m apparently comparing this thing to a Hot Pocket and not a meal at a 4-bell restaurant; it is, after all, “only” a piece of pie.
Then I attempted the lime custard pie with basil whip. I took a bite. Holy. Crapballs. What the hell was that? It tasted creamy and silky like a perfect custard should, but then the flirtacious lime came across, beckoning me to have another bite as soon as I could just so I could taste it again. But, if you held out (i.e. if you were fumbling with the fork and couldn’t quite shovel another bite into your mouth fast enough), you’d be rewarded by a breath of basil that’d tweak your brain into forgetting everything it ever knew about key lime pie. Yes, there’s a perfect crust that gives a nice salty backbone for the sweetness of the pie. Yes, there’s pistachio nuttiness. But this one’s about the flirtacious lime-basil. Actually, that’s dumb. It’s about everything – it’s all good. If I had to get hit in the face with a pie, I’d choose this one. (I like it very-nearly-as-much as our fave (Penza’s pies), but this one would hurt a whole lot less than getting hit in the face with one of those heavy-as-hell suckers.)
Now where there’s a winner, there’s also a loser. Meet your loser: orange blossom, peach, raspberry pie. It wins points for having an “interesting” flavor, most likely due to the orange blossom. As you bit into it, the super-sweet peach (it’s rich and thick like it came from a can, except without the metallic taste of canned peaches), but then you get this dose of roibis herbal tea, that kind of gives the pie some teeth amidst the cloying sweet. It was actually kind of fun. But that’s where the success stopped. The raspberries were kind of like an afterthought, stuck on top and unappealing to the eyes (and tongue). The crumb was mushy. The bottom crust was mushy. There just wasn’t enough structure or savory to compete with the powerful peaches. A Penza’s fruit pie would destroy this one, orange blossoms be damned.
As an aside: I saw those “pie fries”, which were essentially baked-off pie crust, cut into strips, and dipped into jams – and they looked amazing. The kids at the counter I saw eating them were in heaven. Because I have a similar child-like attraction to sweets, I imagine I would like those, too!
I do want to point out some non-pie issues I had with Magpie. First off: their service is a little inept at this point. Maybe I should cut them a break because they’re brand new, but it did seem like (i.e. I watched them as) they took a ridiculous amount of time figuring out what would be needed to pack the pies I ordered, obtaining those necessary supplies, packing the pies, and operating the cash register so that I could be appropriately charged for the pies (between failed transactions, failed attempts at printing out receipts, etc). And of course, 3 steps after I left, I realized they also failed to provide me with utensils. I did return to retrieve the utensils, but then I discovered my biggest annoyance with Magpie: the plastic utensils. That’s right. They have uber-sucky utensils. There, I said it. And yes – it’s a problem. These were undoubtedly the cheapest possible plastic forks on Earth, which would have been ok if these were some namby-pamby hospital cafeteria pies (or jello), but no, two of these had wonderfully tenacious crusts that needed to be pierced with sharp, sturdy tines. Oh what I would have given for a not-crappy fork! … or hell – I would have even taken a pair of chopsticks! Fortunately, after struggling with the provided utensils, I sourced my own plastic utensils, swearing that next time I’m going to have to either eat-in or BYOF.
Ants Pants vs. Green Eggs
t says: My coworkers and I continued along our brunch-tour of Philadelphia. We hit up Ants Pants and Green Eggs on two consecutive weekends last month and it was glorious! But I have to foreshadow: one was more glorious than the other …
Green Eggs: August 2012, Monday Brunch, Party of 5. First things first: within 2 minutes of sitting down, it was decided that we split an order some of the “famous” red velvet pancakes for the table. Check it:
When these pancakes came out, the first word that came to my head was “Cra-cra!”. And trust me – I don’t use “cra-cra” lightly, but only it can fully capture the level of silliness/absurdity that is included in “crazy”. I don’t know if it was the color (it’s BRIGHT red!), the shape (it’s SQUARE!), or the size (it’s HUGE). After carving this thing up into five unequal pieces (epic fail on my part), I dove in to see if they’d taste good. And that they were – they were “good” … at first … You see, the pancakes were fluffy, the marscapone and chantilly cream were sweet – but there wasn’t really a whole lot going on … Then BAM! I came across those “chocolate morsels” and everything changed right before my very tongue. And it wasn’t just because I’m a chocoholic, rather, it really made the entire pancake-concoction taste better! I began to appreciate the strawberry and buttermilk and maple much more – and then … they transcended to “Awesome”. I do want to say, however, that there is no way tat I could ever finish off a whole plate of those, as it’d probably be too rich – I’d say that a half-order would be my max. My advice: go halfsies with someone on this dish and one other savory dish and then you’ll all be happy!
But it didn’t stop there. Green Eggs kept up the pressure with a wonderfully cooked Chicken and Waffles Benedict, with super-crisp-and-juicy chicken atop a waffle with a nice and runny poached egg (and crack potatoes … that’s what I’m calling them). And “the kitchen sink” looked outta-control:
This dish has one of my brunchmates crying uncle well before the sink was empty.
In all, I know that I was very impressed with Green Eggs. The food was delicious and packed with enough novelty to keep my attention. Now if only they wouldn’t be so busy during the weekends …
Ants Pants: August 2012, Monday Brunch, Party of 5. Ok – by process of elimination, Ants Pants had the “less glorious” brunch, right? Sadly, yes. And don’t get me wrong – it wasn’t bad, but compared to Green Eggs, it just didn’t have the sex appeal. For example, I ordered the “bacon stack”. Sounds pretty sexy, right?
As you can see, it’s not actually that sexy-looking. On one hand, we can blame my photography – which is fair – I have no skills. We can blame the camera – which is fair – I’m still using an iPhone 3G (the 5 is coming … then booyah!). We can also blame the lack of bacon, however! I mean, if it’s the “bacon stack”, then surely there needs to be a large amount of stacked bacon, right? Apparently not. You can barely see the bacon! I think there were like 3 pieces on it … but they obviously weren’t the focus amidst the the salad and the tomatoes and the eggs. I mean, really, the bacon could just as well not have been there, as it was covered/masked by all the other stuff. So the balance of the overall dish was off. The eggs could have been seasoned more aggressively. The salad was unremarkable. The biscuit didn’t really have much flavor/texture. And then bacon … the bacon … it was just some plain ‘ol bacon – not particularly crisp, not particularly flavorful.
After peering at other’s dishes, I have to say that I don’t think I would have enjoyed theirs any more than mine – it all looked so predictable and kinda boring. But don’t get me wrong: nothing was “bad” – it was all quite edible. And I guess if you’re not in the mood for something sexy/sweet/fattening, then everything’s just fine and dandy. But for me – I’m going Green Eggs …
SoWe tries to stand out amongst a crowd of gastropubs
t says: g and I went to SoWe the other day. Unfortunately, I can’t remember what it is everyone got, but I do remember these …
August 2012, Dinner, Party of 4. I had this drink – try to guess what it was by appearance:
This, my friends, is a chocolate-bacon martini. It’s made with Bakon vodka, and it’s de-li-cious. BUT, before you react, “that’s so totally gross”, hear me out! The drink does not taste like a crap-ton of bacon. It’s more like a chocolate martini with a little bit of smoky-saltiness at the end, which keeps you coming back for more. It’s actually a perfect balance, which I think is important, because with too much bacon flavor, I imagine you’d cry uncle after the second sip. So give this thing a whirl – it’s a perfect after-dinner drink!
The pork belly sandwich was pretty tasty, but I have to say that it wasn’t like the pork belly, itself, was adding a ton of dimension. I think I was a bit underwhelmed because of the pork belly cookery: it wasn’t the most tender pork belly ever, and it wasn’t really “crisped” like the menu promised. I was torn because I’m sure that had Fond or Cochon executed this sandwich, then the pork belly would have absolutely sung. This one just kinda “middled”. The rye and the coleslaw were each “ok”, so the sum of all of the parts amounted to: “good”.
There were a few other dishes we had (g had a burger – it was “fine”), but I assure you the while everything was on a similar level of “good” or “fine. I guess we just had higher hopes, as it seems that gastropubs frequently have some kind of super-awesome “shtick” when it comes to food, be it a signature burger or some kind of friend chicken or whatever. So either SoWe just hasn’t found it yet, or we haven’t found SoWe’s yet. Fortunately the food was “good enough” enough to warrant return visits in the future with friends (after all, I have to get people to try that bacon-chocolate martini!), but just not quite good enough for g and I to make plans to go there, like, tomorrow.
Fond keeps killing it
t says: A gaggle of peeps went to Fond recently. I was slated to go, however, felt a bit under the weather, so the other 7 had to go on without me. Fortunately, a and v and g paid attention and reported back … (but took no pictures …)
August 2012, Friday Dinner, Party of 7.
g says: The crudo was the best crudo they’ve ever made! And I had the beef … it was delicious as always.
a says: We had three appetizers. The foie has no equals, and it was somehow made even better by the lemon-ricotta. (Note to Fond: Where can I find this stuff?) The speck wrapped shrimp was OK, though I was warned by Steve (t explains: Steve is Fond’s charming, bigger-than-life waiter) that it wouldn’t hold-up to the foie. I actually think the corn risotto under the shrimp was more interesting. (v jumps in: Actually, the risotto dish is second to the pigs feet at Bibou on v’s list of favorite dishes in Philly.) For my main, they do the best skate wing I’ve ever had, but I don’t know I’ve had it anywhere else. Whatever, it rocks. v’s spanish octopus had good texture and a lot of flavor, and not surprisingly, she wasn’t sharing much. They accommodated v and I’s sharing of the cheesecake by pre-splitting and serving two plates. The cheesecake and shortbread cookie went together perfectly, resulting in a lighter, summer dessert . The service was outstanding in that we are treated like family (or at least a second cousin). We appreciated the honesty about the menu and thoughtfulness when serving of the staff. We can’t wait to go back and share a few more shots with them in their new location. Hopefully they’ll still be on the house.
t says: Sure, there were more stories and more people who had impressions about the food, but because I haven’t interrogated them, personally, I don’t want to put down what I heard they might have said – that’d be heresay. The gist, however, is that the food continues to rock at Fond. Actually. If anything, it sounds like it’s even a little better than before, as the desserts which I kinda-sorta-poo-pooed last time were very well-received by the group. We’re happy for their success and wish them luck in the future … even if they do move to a new venue with a liquor license …
wishing Gardenia was still around …
t says: g and I visited Rittenhouse tavern for brunch. After such a glowing review from Craig LaBan (who did more of a dinner review), we figured we’d try give brunch a whirl first and then go from there. We know that in the restaurant industry, Sunday brunch isn’t exactly “the best” of what the kitchen staff can do (or even possessive of “the best kitchen staff”), but we figured that if the last restaurant in that space, Gardenia, was already “good”, then this would be even better!
August 2012, Sunday Brunch, Party of 2. g and I walked in to an empty restaurant. I guess their brunch service takes a little while to get going. We sat in the b-e-a-u-tiful outdoor space and proceeded to be torn in a variety of directions by the menu. I could have gone in a sweet-breakfast direction, I could have gone in a savory-sandwich-lunch direction, I could have gone anywhere inbetween. Everything sounded good. Of course, some things sounded stupid, like the $25 foie supplement to the pancakes, or the $5 fruit supplement (I mean, seriously, how much fruit could they possibly be adding to the pancakes? a quart of strawberries?). But alas, we rolled with the punches and, after consulting with our server, ordered/ate the following:
So I forgot that Craig LaBan actually love-love-loved the crudo, which was offered to him during dinner: “That crudo of local fluke, cured in kombu before being layered with sheer radish chips and silky dabs of lemon puree, was one of the best bites of raw fish I’ve had in months.” We have to agree that it’s a net-positive dish, as the crudo was a surprising mix of delicate flavors that were very-nearly-perfect. We say “very nearly” because there was a little bit of a salting issue in that some pieces had salt (i.e. all the ones I had) and some didn’t (i.e. all the ones g had). Thus, g was actually pretty underwhelmed by the crudo (and she loves crudos) … right up until she had a salted piece, and was much happier (but still not blown away). It’s not necessarily “the best bite of raw fish we’ve had in months”, but it shows that someone can make a very pretty, very tasty dish that shows a nice balance of delicate flavors.
For our mains, we did the turkey schnitzel and the pancakes (sans fruit/foie):
I have to come right out and say it: the pancakes were a disappointment. Flat [“as a pancake”]. A touch rubbery. A wee-bit burned. g suggested I send them back (and g never suggests that I send things back), however, upon tasting the single not-visibly-burned pancake (1 of 3), I found that it, too, had some of that burned-smokiness to it, so I doubted whether it could actually be done any different – and it’s not like “buckwheat” is so full of flavor that I was missing out on something. Now I know why someone would want to pay $5 for the fruit: to add some much-needed flavor and friendliness to the pancakes … and in that moment, as I doused my pancakes in the Chantilly cream, I longed for Gardenia’s lemon-ricotta-blueberry pancakes …
The schnitzel, on the other hand wasn’t bad at all. The sauce was delightfully punchy, and the potatoes were nicely done. The meat was well-seasoned and as tender as turkey could be. Was it authentic Austrian schnitzel? No. But that’s ok – those things tend to be very heavy, while after this one, we felt full, but not gross. So I put this one in the “win” column … not in the “rocked my world” column, but it was just a whole lot better than the pancakes.
We do have to mention one course that we did not have but looked pretty awesome: the bread board. There were an assortment of breakfast pastries: I believe I saw a cinnamon roll, some small muffins, maybe scone or something like that. Looked pretty tasty! (And definitely better-looking than my pancakes tasted!) So try that next time and let me know how it is!
In conclusion: Sunday brunch is something that we’re not going to be re-trying at Rittenhouse Tavern (and if a friend suggests it, we’ll try to re-direct them to Parc). We will, however, give dinner a try, as that fluke was quite delicious [for me], so we hope that LaBan was actually on to something with the rest of his review. On the flip side, our server said, and I quote, “The schnitzel is like one of the best things that we make, including the dinner menu …” I hope not, because it was squarely good, but not nearing greatness … I guess time will tell …



















